Enter through the doorway on 3rd Ave – the red light tells you if it's open or not – then descend the graffiti-lined stairway into Vancouver's coolest small bar. Little bigger than a train carriage and lined with moth-eaten taxidermy and junk-shop pictures, it's an atmospheric nook that always feels like midnight. In summer, try the hidden alfresco bar out back.
Mac 'n' cheese (go for the Guinness-infused version) is the fuel-up dish of choice here, or you can just have another whiskey and hope for the best – but if the mangy bear head on the wall starts talking to you, it's probably time to call it a night. Popular with Main St hipsters, this is a great location to spot local lads and their attempts to grow full-on Noah beards.