The Swiss chef-owner makes wonderful use of local bounty in this warm, art-filled dining room. The ever-changing menu might include foraged goose-tongue greens and wild mushrooms, periwinkles or New Brunswick lobster. They each play a part in complex, exquisite dishes – say, lobster with nasturtium-flower dumplings and vanilla bisque, or foie gras with cacao nibs and bee balm–poached peach. Reservations crucial.

The restaurant is 3km north of town.