A darling of the city’s wine connoisseurs, this convivial brick-walled bistro pours an enticing and ever-changing array of wines from all over the Mediterranean, by the glass and by the bottle, accompanied by hearty and homespun snacks ($9 to $16) and main dishes ($18 to $24) such as blood sausage, cheese fondue or lentil soup. Reservations recommended.
Each season brings a new theme, with emphasis placed on a single French region or department (Ardèche, Jura etc) or Mediterranean country. Crowds pour in after work, quickly filling the two rooms to capacity, starting with aperitifs and lingering on through dinner. During business hours it also doubles as a wine merchant, selling hard-to-find bottles to take away.