Wilensky’s feels like walking onto a 1950s Hollywood movie set. Rickety wooden stools line the counter and photographs from the 1930s festoon the walls. But this is no place for reminiscing: with little ceremony, the somewhat grumpy staff will hand-pump your soda and crank out the Wilensky’s Special – a double-grilled salami and bologna sandwich that’s pressed flat.

Immortalized in Mordecai Richler’s novel The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz andthe subsequent film, Wilensky’s remains a unique part of the city’s culinary culture.