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Getting There & Away

The airport, 5km outside the town, was being rebuilt at the time of research, so your only option for reaching N'Gaoundéré at present is overland.

The train station is at the eastern end of town. Trains to Yaoundé leave daily at around 7pm (CFA28,000 in 1st-class couchette, 12 hours), and you can reserve your seat a day in advance.

By bus, Touristique Express and Alliance Voyages are the best, with several buses daily to Garoua (CFA3500, five hours) and Maroua (CFA6000, eight hours). Kawtal Voyages operates a battered Garoua-Boulaï (CFA4000, 12 hours) service most days from the gare routière by the Grande Mosquée. Think twice before attempting this during the rains. Equally strenuous is the appalling road south to Foumban, run by Alliance Voyages (CFA11,000, around 15 hours).