Eating

Cambodia’s abundant waterways provide the fish that is fermented into prahoc (fermented fish paste), which forms the backbone of Khmer cuisine. Built around this are the flavours that give the cuisine its kick: the secret roots, the welcome herbs and the aromatic tubers. Together they give the salads, snacks, soups and stews a special aroma and taste that smacks of Cambodia.

Rice from Cambodia’s lush fields is the principal staple, enshrined in the Khmer word for ‘eating’ or ‘to eat’, nyam bai – literally ‘eat rice’. Many a Cambodian, particularly drivers, will run out of steam if they run out of rice. It doesn’t matter that the same carbohydrates are available in other foods, it is rice and rice alone that counts. Battambang Province is Cambodia’s rice bowl and produces the country’s finest yield.

For the taste of Cambodia in a bowl, try the local kyteow, a rice-noodle soup that will keep you going all day. This full, balanced meal will cost you just 5000r in markets and about US$2 in local restaurants. Don’t like noodles? Then try the bobor (rice porridge), a national institution, for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and best sampled with some fresh fish and a splash of ginger.

A Cambodian meal almost always includes a samlor (traditional soup), which will appear at the same time as the other courses. Samlor machou bunlay (hot and sour fish soup with pineapple and spices) is popular.

Freshwater fish forms a huge part of the Cambodian diet thanks to the natural phenomenon that is the Tonlé Sap lake. The fish come in every shape and size, from the giant Mekong catfish to teeny-tiny whitebait, which are great beer snacks when deep-fried. Trey ahng (grilled fish) is a Cambodian speciality (ahng means ‘grilled’ and can be applied to many dishes). Traditionally, the fish is eaten as pieces wrapped in lettuce or spinach leaves and then dipped into teuk trey, a fish sauce that is a close relative to Vietnam’s nuoc mam, but with the addition of ground peanuts.

Cambodian salad dishes are popular and delicious, although they’re quite different from the Western idea of a cold salad. Phlea sait kow is a beef-and-vegetable salad flavoured with coriander, mint and lemongrass. These three herbs find their way into many Cambodian dishes.

Desserts can be sampled cheaply at night markets around the country. One sweet snack to look out for is the ice-cream sandwich. Popular with the kids, it involves putting a slab of homemade ice cream into a piece of sponge or bread.

Cambodia is blessed with many tropical fruits and sampling these is an integral part of a visit to the country. All the common fruits can be found in abundance, including chek (banana), menoa (pineapple) and duong (coconut). Among the larger fruit, khnau (jackfruit) is very common, often weighing more than 20kg. The tourain (durian) usually needs no introduction, as you can smell it from a mile off; the exterior is green with sharp spikes, while inside is a milky, soft interior regarded by the Chinese as an aphrodisiac.

The fruits most popular with visitors include the mongkut (mangosteen) and sao mao (rambutan). The small mangosteen has a purple skin that contains white segments with a divine flavour, while the rambutan has an interior like a lychee and an exterior covered in soft red and green spikes.

Best of all, although common throughout the world, is the svay (mango). The Cambodian mango season is from March to May. Other varieties of mango are available year-round, but it’s the hot-season ones that are a taste sensation.

Crickets Anyone for cricket?

Duck foetus Unborn duck, feathers and all.

Durian Nasally obnoxious spiky fruit, banned on flights.

Prahoc Fermented fish paste, almost a biological weapon.

Spiders Just like it sounds, deep-fried tarantulas.

Street food is an important part of everyday Cambodian life. Like many Southeast Asians, Cambodians are inveterate snackers. They can be found at impromptu stalls at any time of the day or night, delving into a range of unidentified frying objects. Drop into the markets for an even greater range of dishes and the chance of a comfortable seat. It’s a cheap, cheerful and cool way to get up close and personal with Khmer cuisine.

Here's a list of five top street snacks to look out for:

Banh chev Rice pancake stuffed with yummy herbs, bean sprouts and a meat or fish staple.

Bobor Rice porridge, like congee in China, popular with dried fish and egg or zip it up with chilli and black pepper.

Chek chien Deep-fried bananas; these are a popular street snack at any time of day.

Nam ben choc Thin rice noodles served with a red chicken curry or a fish-based broth.

Loat Small white noodles that almost look like bean sprouts; they taste delicious fried up with beef.

Both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap have child-friendly eateries, although most restaurants in Cambodia are pretty friendly towards children. Some international restaurants have a children's menu available. High chairs are generally only found at international restaurants and fast-food outlets. Baby-changing facilities are almost nonexistent in Cambodian restaurants.

Sit at the table with your bowl on a small plate, chopsticks or fork and spoon at the ready. Some Cambodians prefer chopsticks, some prefer fork and spoon, but both are usually available. Each place setting will include a small bowl, usually located at the top right-hand side for the dipping sauces.

When serving yourself from the central bowls, use the communal serving spoon so as not to dip your chopsticks or spoon into the food. To begin eating, just pick up your bowl with your left hand, bring it close to your mouth and spoon in the food.

Some dos and don’ts:

• Do wait for your host to sit first.
• Don’t turn down food placed in your bowl by your host.
• Do learn to use chopsticks.
• Don’t leave chopsticks in a V-shape in the bowl, a symbol of death.
• Do tip about 5% to 10% in restaurants, as wages are low.
• Don’t tip if there is already a service charge on the bill.
• Do drink every time someone offers a toast.
• Don’t pass out face down on the table if the toasting goes on all night.