Around Ploshtad Battenberg

Originally built as the headquarters of the Ottoman governor and his police force, it was at the Royal Palace that Bulgaria’s national hero, Vasil Levski, was tried and tortured before his public execution in 1873. After the liberation the building was remodelled in Viennese style and in 1887, apparently undeterred by its grisly recent past, Prince Alexander Battenberg moved in; it became the official residence of Bulgaria’s royal family until the communist takeover. These days it provides a grand setting for the humble Ethnographical Museum.

Boyana

Boyana is a peaceful and prosperous suburb of Sofia, lying around 8km south of the city centre. Once a favourite retreat for communist leaders and apparatchiks, these days it’s home to Sofia’s wealthy elite and two of the capital’s major attractions. However, there’s little else to detain you here.