The dining scene is international and varied. In the city centre, restaurants can be found along the waterfront and on Jln Sultan. Other foodie enclaves include Gadong and Kiulap, a short drive/bus ride from the waterfront.
Ambuyat – Gummy, Gluey & Glutinous
Remember that kid in kindergarten who used to eat craft glue? Well, ambuyat, Brunei's unofficial national dish, comes pretty darn close. It's a gelatinous, porridge-like goo made from the pith of the sago tree, which is ground to a powder, mixed with water and eaten with a variety of flavourful sauces.
To eat ambuyat you'll be given a special pair of chopsticks called chandas that are attached at the top (don't snap them in two!) to make it easier to twirl up the tenacious mucous. Once you've scooped up a bite-sized quantity, dunk it into the sauce. After your ambuyat is sufficiently drenched, place the glob of dripping, quivering, translucent mucilage in your mouth and swallow – don't chew, just let it glide down your throat.
The best place to try it is at one of the branches of Aminah Arif.