The aroma of succulent paella hangs in the air as waiters hurry to and from the kitchen bearing platefuls of fresh seafood. Shirley, opened in 1954, was one of the first Spanish restaurants in town, and attracts a local following in its small Leme dining room.

In addition to paella, the mussel-vinaigrette appetizer and the oven-baked snapper in white-wine sauce are also recommended. Most seafood plates serve two (priced from R$96 to R$130).