in Copacabana & Leme

The casual, no-nonsense Arataca serves cuisine of the Amazon. There's moqueca made with pirarucu (a freshwater fish), pato no tucupi (roast duck flavored with garlic) or vatapá (a seafood dish with a thick sauce of manioc paste and coconut), all of which go nicely with real guaraná juice or first-rate açaí (order it 'natural,' without added sugar).

The classic hole-in-the-wall has a few tables in front, or you can belly up to the counter for your meal.