The walls of this lively, bi-level boteco (open-air bar) straddling Centro and Cidade Baixa is covered in some 200-odd musings of comedians and locals, and packs a wild punch of chope (draft beer) starved locals, here to preempt the beer with regional delicacies like honey-smoked pork ribs and crunchy shrimp sandwiches with coalho cheese. Saturday feijoada (bean-and-meat stew), too (male/female R$39.90/34.90)