Humble, local and a kitchen magician, Chef Alcindo Queiroz serves regional moquecas and seafood that are an unexpected joy at this Olinda sleeper. Start with the Taperoá appetizer – flambéed shrimp over a fried banana drizzled with a pink peppercorn and star-anise sauce – then savor an excellent Pernambucana-style seafood stew. Douse it all in the vinegary housemade pepper sauce!