One of the Amazon's best restaurants, Flor do Luar sits on a floating pontoon on the Rio Negro and serves fabulous food and cold beers. The specialty is the banda de tambaqui assada, a local fish cooked on the grill with plantains, but start with the brilliant dadinho de tapioca (deep-fried tapioca croquettes). You can even swim from the waterfront platform.
If only they opened for other days of the week and for dinner, we'd never leave. There's an art gallery attached.