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Getting There & Away

Abaline-PR runs boats (R$53 return) at 8:30am, 9:30am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 4:30pm and 6pm in summer (these dwindle to 9:30am and 3:30pm in low season) from the jetty opposite Paranaguá’s tourist office, stopping first in Nova Brasília (1½ hours), and then in Encantadas (two hours). Returning to the mainland, boats depart Nova Brasília for Paranaguá in summer at 8am, 10am, 1:30pm, 3:30pm, 4:30pm, 6:30pm and 7pm. In low season, departures are 8am and 5pm during the week and 10:30am and 5pm on weekends. All boats leave a half hour earlier from Encantadas.

Alternatively, Viação Graciosa (www.viacaograciosa.com.br) runs four to six daily buses to/from Curitiba to Pontal do Sul (R$42.74, 2½ hours), on the mainland opposite Encantadas, where you can embark for the 30-minute crossing to Nova Brasília or Encantadas (R$35 return). In high season, boats leave every half hour from 8am to 8pm from Pontal and from Ilha do Mel; in low season, every hour until 6pm.

If you arrive with clunky wheeled luggage, a battalion of wooden cart-wielding sand porters have your back: from Nova Brasília, it's R$40 as far as Farol and R$60 to Praia Grande.