Worth a Trip: Redonda

The peaceful fishing village of Redonda, 35km southeast of Canoa Quebrada, beyond the headland of Ponta Grossa, is reminiscent of Canoa Quebrada before tourism set in – a fine place to forget the wider world for a few days amid authentic Cearense village life.

Like Canoa, the beach is backed by cliffs, with the town on the top of the plateau. One road leads down to the beach, which is always busy with fisherman getting ready to go to sea or bringing in their catch from their traditional sailing vessels.

The waterfront is lined with pleasant open-air restaurants that serve seafood straight off the boats and are good places to eat lobster at lower-than-usual prices.

While Redonda is an easy day trip from Canoa Quebrada, there are several good places to stay around town, including Pousada O Pescador, right on the beach, and the slightly fancier (but still relaxed) brick chalets of Oh! Linda Pousada up on the clifftop.

You can get to Redonda from Fortaleza by taking a bus to Aracati (R$21.50, three hours, 12 daily), then a van/shared taxi from Aracati's Igreja Matriz to Redonda (R$5/10, 45 minutes). A taxi from Canoa Quebrada costs around R$120 – for slightly more the driver will wait while you eat and bring you back. If you want to tour around the area consider hiring a private driver; Alexandre dos Santos offers transport all over the region in his tiny Fiat Uno.