Most of the better restaurants are in or near Armação. For good seafood at more affordable prices, check out the little thatched-roof places on Ferradura and João Fernandes beaches.

Three kilometers west of town at Manguinhos, the trendy food complex Porto da Barra is also worth a look, featuring over a dozen bars and restaurants spread out along a tree-fringed waterfront boardwalk; it's a great place for a snack and a drink at sunset.