Neno's fluent presentations sum up the country's history and include fascinating personal reflections. Book via email – you'll be allotted a time to meet (usually midmorning) in front of the National Theatre. Takes roughly two hours. 'Free' means you pay through tips.

In August tours can be heavily oversubscribed with two or three guides shepherding as many as 50 people each. But off-season the experience can be fairly intimate.