Walking Tour: Mostar's Scars

  • Start Španski trg
  • End Crooked Bridge
  • Length 2km; one hour

Start at Španski trg, where a monument honours Spanish peacekeepers killed during the Bosnian War. This square was right on the front line between the Croatian and Bosniak sides of town. Several shell-pocked buildings remain in ruins, including the triangular Ljubljanska Banka block; once a notorious snipers' nest, it's now a graffiti-covered skeleton. In contrast, the apricot neo-Moorish Stara Gimnazija (Old High School, 1902) has been beautifully restored.

Head towards the river and cross over to Trg Musala, once the heart of Austro-Hungarian Mostar. While the City Baths building (1914) has been restored, the once-splendid Hotel Neretva (1892) teeters on the verge of collapse.

Turn right past the mosque onto the Braće Fejića shopping strip. Stop to admire the beautiful stonework of the Roznamedži Ibrahimefendi Mosque. Built before 1620, it was the only one of the city's old mosques to have survived the war. Further along is the substantially rebuilt Karadjoz-bey Mosque.

Take the next street to the left, passing various grand ruins, and then turn right onto Maršala Tita. Cut through the wartime cemetery and take the steps up to the 17th-century Ottoman clock tower, unusual in that it was commissioned by a woman.

Walk back down towards the domed 1564 Nesuh-aga Vučijaković Mosque, or as it's better known, the 'mosque under the lime tree'. Cross the road and take the cobbled lane nearly opposite and turn left past the two tombs onto Mala Tepa. The entrance to the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque is almost obscured behind the shops to your right.

Continue through the Kujundžiluk Bazaar to the famous Stari Most. After crossing the bridge, take the first lane to your right and enter the Tabhana, an old tannery complex where the central tanning pond is now a swimming pool. Head out onto the little square, where you'll see the Hamam Museum and the Tabačica Mosque. Cut through to cobbled Onešćukova and look out for the lane heading down to the Crooked Bridge.