Top ChoiceBridge in Mostar

Stari Most

Stari Most

The world-famous Stari Most (meaning simply 'Old Bridge') is Mostar's indisputable visual focus. Its pale stone magnificently reflects the golden glow of sunset or the tasteful night-time floodlighting. The...

Top ChoiceWaterfall in Hercegovina

Kravica Waterfall

Kravica Waterfall

There's a slightly unreal Disney-esque quality to this outstanding natural attraction, where the Trebižat River plummets in a broad 25m-high arc into an emerald pool. In spring, this gorgeous mini-Niagara pounds...

Top ChoiceBalkan in Mostar

Tima-Irma

Despite the constant queues at this insanely popular little grill joint, the staff maintain an impressive equanimity while delivering groaning platters of ćevapi (cylindrical lozenges of minced meat), pljeskavica...

Islamic Site in Blagaj

Blagaj Tekke

Blagaj Tekke

Forming Blagaj's signature attraction, the centrepiece of this complex of traditional stone-roofed buildings is a very pretty half-timbered dervish house with wobbly rug-covered floors, carved doorways, curious...

Craft Beer in Mostar

Ima i Može Craft Beer Garden

You're liable to hear old-school punk or Bowie blasting out of this open-sided wooden pavilion above the Radobolja River, given the predilections of the owner-manager, who's also behind the OldbridZ Brewery. Take...

Pub in Mostar

Black Dog Pub

This Black Dog really starts to howl on summer nights, when musicians set up on the cobbles facing the Crooked Bridge and everyone lounges around on cushions. Inside, the historical millhouse is decked out with...

Balkan in Mostar

Šadrvan

On a vine- and tree-shaded corner where the pedestrian lane from Stari Most divides, this tourist favourite has tables set around a trickling fountain made of old Turkish-style metalwork. Obliging, costumed...

Cafe in Mostar

Café de Alma

Step back to Ottoman times at this excellent coffee roastery, with a shady front terrace and cool interior. The only things served are homemade juices and Bosnian-style coffee, and on your first visit you'll be...

Museum in Mostar

Kajtaz House

Kajtaz House

Hidden behind tall walls, Mostar's most interesting old house was once the harem (women's) section of a larger homestead built for a 16th-century Turkish judge. Full of original artefacts, it still belongs to...

Church in Međugorje

St James Church complex

St James Church complex

Međugorje's central focus is this rather functional double-towered 1969 church and the parklike grounds behind it. The main daily service is a 6pm rosary followed by a 7pm Mass, which in summer is celebrated in...

Square in Trebinje

Trg Slobode

Doze off at this pretty 'Freedom Square' and when you awake you might think yourself transported to southern France, with its chestnut trees and stone-flagged pavements, old stone buildings with wrought-iron...

Cemetery in Hercegovina

Boljuni Stećci

This collection of more than 270 stećci (ancient grave-carvings) forms two nearby groups under venerable oak trees at Boljuni, 12km from Stolac. While less celebrated than the stećci at Radimlja, Boljuni's have a...

Memorial in Mostar

Partisan Memorial Cemetery

Partisan Memorial Cemetery

Although this cemetery is sadly neglected and badly vandalised, fans of 20th-century socialist architecture should seek out this magnificent memorial complex, designed by leading Yugoslav-era architect Bogdan...

Church in Trebinje

Hercegovačka Gračanica

Offering phenomenal views, this hilltop complex comprises a bell tower, gallery, cafe-bar and bishop's palace, but most notably the compact but eye-catching Presvete Bogorodice (Annunciation) Church. The latter's...

Bridge in Trebinje

Arslanagić Bridge

This unique double-backed structure was built in 1574 under the direction of Grand Vizier Mehmed Pasha Sokolović, who was also behind the Višegrad bridge, though this one was named for the toll collector. It was...

International in Blagaj

Restoran Vrelo

Across the river from the tekke, this restaurant serves reliably good food on terraces overlooking a horseshoe of rapids. Local trout is served in a variety of styles, including 'probaj ova' (literally 'try...

Balkan in Međugorje

Etno Kuća

Wagon-wheel light fixtures and sheaves of tobacco hang from the ceiling of this rustic restaurant which sits surrounded by gardens and farmland, 3km east of central Međugorje. The charming staff can help you...

Mosque in Počitelj

Hajji Alija Mosque

Built in 1563, this large, beautiful mosque had its dome and minaret wantonly destroyed by Bosnian Croats in 1993, but it has been meticulously rebuilt, with traces of original colour left in its faceted...

Balkan in Mostar

Food House

For an otherwise fairly traditional Bosnian-style restaurant, Food House offers a surprisingly good selection of vegetarian dishes, with some vegan options as well. For everyone else, it's a good place to try...

Museum in Mostar

Hamam Museum

This late 16th-century bathhouse has been attractively restored with whitewashed interiors, bilingual panels explaining hammam (Turkish bath) culture and glass cabinets displaying associated traditional...