If you're happy to sleep 6km out of town, this riverside motel is a convivial alternative to Banja Luka's suburban motorway motels. Inside, chipped tiles in old-looking corridors bode ill, but rooms have been given a sparky makeover with quirky 3D fish pictures, crisp sheets on new beds and good AC.
The waterfront cafe is a great place to watch the river flow by and is a base for Banja Luka's scuba club (www.rkdelfin.com). Just 200m down the road is the Klašnik restaurant, quaintly decorated and locally famed for fish dishes and traditional Bosnian home cooking. Bus 8 passes by up to four times an hour, 5.30am to 11pm.