Leblanc

Grill in Liège

Yes, it's a butchers' shop, and having shimmied past the counter you have to walk over a cow – a model, fortunately, grazing surreally beneath a glass floor. This brings you to the dining area of scarlet chairs tucked around the freezer cabinet with large pans dangling overhead. Yet somehow it all makes sense, especially once you taste the dry-age steaks.

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