The name evokes cooking just like ‘at home’, but unless you have a personal chef crafting the likes of North Sea lobster salad with black truffles and potatoes, sole fillets with Riesling and shrimp mousseline or perhaps spicy lacquered pigeon breast with wild rice, it’s nothing of the sort.

This is extraordinary food from master chef Pierre Wynants’s son-in-law, Lionel Rigolet.