Things aren’t simple in Europe’s newest country. International expats bustle around cosmopolitan Pristina with its mix of modern shops and Ottoman-style bazaars. Beyond the capital, Kosovo’s Serbian monasteries have outstanding frescoes, age-old atmosphere and forbidding walls that have withstood the turbulence of times past. The hills around Peja are ideal for scenic hiking and skiing. A visit to Kosovo is not only fascinating, but also contributes to the country’s emergence onto the European travel scene.