Mostar, Bosnia & Hercegovina
If the 1993 bombardment of the iconic16th-century stone bridge in Mostar underlined the heartbreaking pointlessness of Yugoslavia's brutal civil war, its painstaking reconstruction has proved symbolic of a peaceful post-conflict era. The charming Ottoman quarter has been especially convincingly rebuilt and is once again a delightful patchwork of stone mosques, souvenir peddlers and inviting cafes. In summer it is tourists rather than militias that besiege the place. You can still find bombed-out buildings, but many of these seem to have become an almost organic part of the townscape.