It doesn't get much more Bahraini than Haji Gahwa. Biryanis are the mainstay, served with chopped onion and a basic tomato-and-cucumber salad. After 5pm, order the grill. It can be tricky to find: it's off Government Ave in the pedestrians-only lane marked by Modern Exchange at the southern end, and backs onto the eastern wall of the Gulf Pearl Hotel.
There's a family area, and one for the men, but we love it for its alleyway tables on a warm Gulf night.