Babadağ is Azerbaijan’s ‘holy mountain’, a 3629m bald peak with 360-degree views and a reputation for making climbers’ wishes miraculously come true. While steep and tiring, the walk to the summit is entirely nontechnical and in season (July and August) there’s the added fascination of meeting an assortment of pilgrims as you hike. Out of season there's the danger of snow on top.

The starting point is Gurbangah, a seasonal camp that's two hours' very rough 4WD ride from Lahıc (per vehicle one-way AZN80 to AZN100, return AZN120 to AZN150, often impassable before June). From there most walkers start before dawn on a well-trodden trail taking around six hours up, four hours back. Around an hour before reaching the summit, a less-frequented alternative path leads northwards, descending in around seven hours to a basic camp called Amanevi. That's 11km up a rocky riverbed from Qarxun village, from where an early morning shared jeep runs to Quba via Rük, Söhüb and Təngəaltı.