Once a key staging post on the Vienna–Venice trade route, Friesach is Carinthia’s oldest town. The hills on either side of town bristle with ruined fortifications, and the centre is surrounded by a moat (it’s the only town in Austria that still has one) and a set of imposing, grey-stone walls. Once a year Friesach’s gates are locked, everyone in town dresses up in medieval costumes and Friesach re-enacts its
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