The charismatic back lanes of the Rocks are dotted with little restaurants, from pub lunching to white-linen palaces. There are several upmarket places in this area, many with winning water views. There are also quite a few mediocre spots feeding off visitors. It should come as no surprise that this most touristy of precincts is also one of the priciest. If at all possible, budget for at least one night where you can throw on your glad rags and let Sydney's showiness seduce you.