Within Tasman National Park, the 19km Tasman Coastal Trail between Fortescue Bay and Devil's Kitchen has been somewhat outshined recently by the big-ticket Three Capes Track, which everybody clamours to do. But this excellent track still packs a super-scenic punch, and won’t burn nearly as big a hole into your wallet (only standard national park entry fees apply).

You can walk the trail in either direction – north–south from Devil's Kitchen near Eaglehawk Neck to Fortescue Bay, or the other way around – and knock it off in a brisk nine hours if you put your head down. But if your head is down, you’ll miss all the views! We recommend making it an overnighter: bring a tent and a fuel stove, and camp at either Bivouac Bay (if you’re walking from the north) or Camp Falls (if you’re walking from the south). You can also camp at photogenic Fortescue Bay itself, before or after your hike.

From the north, park your car (or arrange to be dropped off) at the Devil's Kitchen car park. Devil's Kitchen is a spectacularly collapsed archway in the sea cliffs, with waves surging in and out below. Tasman Arch nearby is the ‘before’ model, with the massive stone arch still intact. From here it’s around a 2km hike to Waterfall Bay, via coastal heathlands and clifftop viewing platforms. At the Waterfall Bay itself, a feathery white plume falls 200m from the clifftops into the sea (the amount of water falling depends on recent rains).

Passing Camp Falls and the adjunct camp site, the trail departs the clifftops and ascends Tatnells Hill, before returning to the coast near becalmed Bivouac Bay, where you can camp (basic toilets). The trail then hugs the coast for 10km to Fortescue Bay, via Canoe Bay where you can snorkel out to see a rusty wreck of the William Pitt protruding from the brine. Cool off with another dip in Fortescue Bay itself and camp another night (toilets, cold showers, fireplaces and gas BBQs; bookings advised in summer). From here it’s a 12km dirt-road drive back out to the Arthur Hwy. There's no public transport into Fortescue Bay, so arrange to have someone pick you up.