Coral reefs are intricate ecosystems that quite literally breathe life into the world's oceans, but they are under threat. Destruction of reefs – such as mass coral bleaching – is the result of a combination of factors including climate change and pollution. Scientists and communities are dedicated to protecting these marine environments, and in some destinations, travelers can help too by taking part in coral regeneration schemes.

Editor's note: during COVID-19 there are restrictions on travel. Check the latest guidance before departure, and always follow local health advice.

What are coral regeneration schemes?

Coral regeneration schemes restore damaged and endangered reef ecosystems, such as the Baa Atoll in the Maldives. Scientists collect coral fragments from local reefs to be raised in nurseries until maturity, and later plant or restore them at reef sites. After decades of work by scientific and community-based coalitions around the world, these schemes have been proven as an effective method for restoring thriving reef systems.

How does this help the sustainability of the oceans?

Coral reefs are lush underwater ecosystems, thought to be the home of around 25% of all marine life. These ecosystems provide homes, stability, and sustainability to many marine flora and fauna species. Additionally, they protect coastal shorelines from storms and surges, and help with water filtration in the oceans. This makes them an absolutely essential part of this planet. Coral restoration efforts work to protect these environments, and nurse them back to health.

How to join coral restoration efforts around the world

Caring for coral reefs begins at an individual level, and knowing how to be a responsible diver is key. But there are also organizations around the world that accept volunteers, where you can learn from marine biologists, conservationists and divers and, with the correct support, get directly involved with coral regeneration schemes. As with any volunteering opportunity, do your research ahead of time to assess the suitability of the scheme.

Maldives

Located in the Indian Ocean, the Maldives are highly dependent on coral reefs for food provision, shoreline protection and one of the largest economic sectors for the islands: tourism. This tropical destination provides endless opportunities for visitors to connect to the Baa Atoll, from snorkeling with whale sharks and manta rays, to assisting marine biologists dedicated to the restoration of local coastal coral reef nurseries.

Many techniques are used on the islands to build different areas of the reef, or to create new ones entirely. Using these methods, researchers in the Maldives are seeing their corals regenerate after destructive coral bleaching just a few years ago. Going out with trained divers at resorts like Baros and Summer Island can mean participating first-hand collecting coral, or building structures for regenerative nurseries. These initiatives are designed to rebuild and regrow damaged coral reefs off the islands coasts, and consciously connect travelers with the sea.

Key Largo, Florida

Widely known as the "father of coral restoration", Ken Nedimyer founded the largest coral reef restoration organization in the world on the tropical island of Key Largo, Florida. Coral Restoration Foundation has outplanted thousands of corals on the Florida Reef Tract throughout the Florida Keys, and it welcomes volunteer divers to help with a variety of tasks throughout the year. From diving programs, to volunteering, citizen science, educational activities and more, there is something for every reef lover.

The Loggerhead Marinelife Center offers opportunities for visitors to get first-hand experience with sea turtle protection and coral restoration programs on the island. The Mote Marine Laboratory also offers a volunteer program for visitors who want to help with coral reef restoration programs, monitoring, and research. Taking an active role in marine conservation, other organizations like the Reef Environmental Education Foundation encourage divers to participate in reef fish surveys on local dives to support research efforts.

The Caribbean

There’s no shortage of opportunities to get involved first-hand with coral reef regeneration in the Caribbean. Foundations like the Reef Renewal Foundation in Bonaire invites visitors and volunteer scuba divers to help restore reefs like the Tortugas Reef in the Caribbean Sea.

Resorts such as Round Hill Villas in Jamaica have started reef garden initiatives to restore local coral communities. Dedicated to regenerating these ecosystems, Round Hill and its guests work with marine scientists to replant corals and tend to the local intricate coral reef ecosystems.

Fiji

Fiji is a destination thriving with coral reef regeneration volunteer opportunities, featuring an astounding 42% of the world’s coral species. Surrounded by the largest coral reef system in the Southwest Pacific, this area features four major reef systems, including Great Astrolabe Reef and Nuku Reef. The reef ecosystems here are heavily relied upon by the population for subsistence, coastal shoreline protection, and revenue from tourism.

The Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort offers a luxury stay in eco-friendly living along with an on-site marine biologist available to show guests first-hand how coral planting is done. Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort features coral gardens that are available for guests to tend to, and offers fun family conservation programs catered to all ages.

French Polynesia

Organizations, such as Coral Gardeners in French Polynesia, offer opportunities for interested divers to be directly involved with planting healthy coral on the reefs of Mo'orea – even allowing divers to adopt and name a coral of their own. The Brando is a resort working to save coral ecosystems like the Tetiaroa’s reef through its Ocean Acidification Program, where volunteers are welcome to participate in research.

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Article first published in March 2020, and last updated in January 2021.

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You can be a part of worldwide coral regeneration schemes – here's how

Gone are the days when a vague commitment to conserving water and electricity was the marker of an eco-friendly hotel. Today, a growing number of accommodations have implemented innovative strategies to become more environmentally and socially sustainable.

The rise of greenwashing, however, can make it difficult to separate hotels striving for best practices from those simply pretending to. Here are four key signs your hotel is committed to the cause.

Editor's note: during COVID-19 there are restrictions on travel. Check the latest guidance before departure, and always follow local health advice.

1. It has a sustainability policy

A hotel committed to sustainability will almost always have a sustainability policy on its website. This will spell out if it has been certified by a credible organisation such as EarthCheck or Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) and flag specific sustainability initiatives it has implemented. If you can’t find this information online, contact the hotel. If they can’t provide specifics, be wary. Keep in mind that smaller hotels often struggle to afford the oft-expensive improvements required to meet certification criteria, so don’t be too quick to judge accommodation providers on that basis alone.

2. It’s committed to limiting its environmental impact

Hotels that have had sustainability at heart from conception are generally more low-impact, but many other hotels have done a commendable job of greening up their act. Beyond the implementation of energy and water-conserving technologies, initiatives to look out for include an on-site garden that supplies the hotel restaurant, rooftop beehives, single-use plastic-free amenities, locally made furnishings, recycling bins in guest rooms, the use of eco-friendly cleaning products, and washing linens only on request.

3. It works closely with the local community

Sustainable hotels empower local communities. This typically takes the form of hiring local staff (and providing adequate training and paying them fairly), using local suppliers, supporting sustainable community programs, and integrating guests with the community on the community’s terms, such as via tours run by locals that support local businesses and encourage the preservation of cultural traditions.

4. It encourages guests to get involved

A truly sustainable hotel will inspire guests to follow their lead by incorporating interactive initiatives, such as offering reusable water bottles and/or filtered water refills, free or cheap bicycle rental or shared transport options, guest experiences that support local people and businesses, incentives for guests who arrive by public transport or opt out of having their room serviced, and hosting environmental clean-up events. Sustainable hotels also typically encourage guests verbally to support the hotel’s mission upon check-in.

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This extract is from Lonely Planet's Sustainable Escapes book, which published in March 2020. This article was updated in January 2021.

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How to find a sustainable hotel

Last year we asked you, the Lonely Planet community, to nominate the destinations that you believed were using travel as a force for good in the areas of sustainability, community and diversity. You did not disappoint.

Here are the winners of the Readers’ Choice Awards for Best in Travel 2021 — as selected by you.

Diversity winner: Toronto, Canada

There it is, carved into Toronto 's coat of arms like a sailor’s tattoo: “Diversity Our Strength”. By the oft-unattainable standards of a city’s tagline, Toronto’s stands true: the Ontario capital is home to 250 ethnicities, who speak more than 170 languages, creating an invigorating verve in its enthic enclaves — there are two Little Italys here, three Chinatowns, countless others — and forming rich bouts of nouveau creativity where customs commonly collide.

From Poland to India to Malta to Greece to just about anywhere pointable on a map, the city offers travelers a metaphorical mezze of global experiences. You can sashay your snake hips at a salsa class, savor sarde a beccafico (stuffed sardines) made by a Sicilian chef, and then sip hot sake in a Japanese rockabilly cocktail bar, for little more than the price of a citywide PRESTO travel card.

Our readers nominated Toronto for its “rich indigenous heritage,” waxed lyrical over email about its “beautiful mix of history and people,” and described the city as “inclusive and welcoming.” Indeed, Canada ’s largest city is a progressive and affable place, one that recognizes it was built upon the traditional territories of the Anishnabeg, the Chippewa, the Haudenosaunee, the Mississaugas of the Credit and the Wendat people.

With a growing population of First Nations, Inuit and Métis peoples, a dedicated tourism organization has been created to help visitors experience authentic interactions with indigenous cultures: powwows; traditional fishing excursions; customary culinary delights.

“From an LGBTQI+ perspective, the city is one of the most gay-friendly and multiculturally diverse cities in the world,” says local blogger Ryan Thomas Woods, who runs Out With Ryan. “It's a city where you can be authentically you, hold hands, and kiss on the street almost anywhere.”

Sustainability winner: Wakayama, Japan

The wealth of natural beauty amassed across Wakayama prefecture — thundering silver cascades, marble-white limestone shores, deep primeval forests — feels like it’s worth more to the nation than the Three Sacred Treasures of the Emperor’s Imperial Regalia.

Here, the Great Outdoors works as the Great Healer: natural hot springs soak heavy shoulders; slow pilgrimage routes cut through minds like they do rainforests; and meditative hikes across unspoiled mountains help calm the soul. No wonder our readers nominated it as their favorite sustainable destination.

At its heart, sustainability is a form of preservation — an apparatus designed to alleviate the environmental, economic and sociocultural pressures tourism places on a destination. But our readers see Wakayama as more than that: “[It’s a] place where the mind is healed,” one emerging Matsuo Bashō reasoned poetically. “The experience of returning to nature [is] irreplaceable,” emailed another. Nearly all of the nominations that we received spoke eloquently about Wakayama’s access to the natural world and its pride in its ongoing upkeep.

“There is nothing contrived about Wakayama's strengths as an incredible destination for sustainability,” says photojournalist James Gabriel Martin who last visited in 2017. “With such unspoilt nature on offer, managing the prefecture and tourism in this way just makes sense.”

There are opportunities for travelers to partake in rural Japanese life here by living off the land through WWOOFing at farms like Jugemu, or by eating sustainably at Villa AiDA, a restaurant that only uses ingredients grown in its garden. The idea is to educate people on how they can reconnect with nature.

In fact, conservancy is the organic continuation of what has long existed here. Before organized religion existed in Japan, locals worshipped these forests and mountains, and it was considered a sacred act to walk amongst the tall thickets of the Kii Peninsula. The Kumano Kodō pilgrimage routes, which wind across the prefecture, are the same ancient trails that samurai and Emperors covered hundreds of years ago.

Martin believes that by allowing visitors to stay with Buddhist monks at Kōya-san, where you wake early to meditate and eat local, sustainable vegetarian food, and managing the diving amongst the coral of Kushimoto and Shirahama in a sustainable way, Wakayama makes use of the world as it is. “Here life has another rhythm,” he says, “and the beauty of nature reigns supreme.”

Community winner: Istria, Croatia

If you’re heading to Croatia, there are few undiscovered secrets left along the Istrian coast, the western landmass that plunges into the Adriatic like a protective heraldic shield. From pastel-powdered houses with envious sea views in Rovinj to a carefully-preserved Roman amphitheater in Pula, the region’s aesthetic appeal could feed the Instagram furnace for weeks on its own, but many of Istria ’s true joys are found beyond the frame.

The readers who nominated it for the community prize alerted us to the rich experiences found inland, particularly homestays on farms and the laid-back local atmosphere of tiny hilltop villages. “The people living here are genuine and welcoming,” one reader told us. “Istria offers authentic and unforgettable experiences... each of which gives back to the local communities,” explained another. We also had one message from a reader unable to stop thinking about the coastal town of Novigrad, plus plenty of others fawning over the good wine, hearty food and a welcome lack of crowds.

Tastings at artisan producers are among the most authentic, local experiences a traveler can have here: a small number of family farms have built tasting rooms so visitors can try silky golden olive oils, pungent truffles or crisp award-winning wines.

“Istria realised many years ago what a goldmine it was sitting on, and developed an excellent infrastructure for active and gourmet holidays,” says travel writer Mary Novakovich. “You'll find routes throughout the peninsula for walking and cycling that take in the region's wineries, olive oil producers and some friendly farmstays — known as agroturizam.”

Novakovich recommends travelers check out Motovun, where an old railway track has become a panoramic trail. “The small towns and villages around here, including the artists' colony of Grožnjan and Buzet, are part of a network of agroturizam where you can try local truffles, white malvasija wine, red teran wine and the Croatian version of prosciutto, pršut,” she says.

See the rest of our Best in Travel 2021 winners here.

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Best in Travel 2021: the winners of the Readers’ Choice Awards

Deciding to adopt a sustainable tourism ethos doesn’t mean vowing never to take another flight or to only travel to off-the-radar locales. Instead, invest your wanderlust in places that are rolling out initiatives to minimise the impact of tourism on the environment.

In many ways, travel can be a force for good, so kick-start your eco-friendly escape with one of these dynamic destinations doing their bit for sustainability; from hotels committed to reducing energy consumption, to pioneering tours and activities designed to give back to local communities and help wildlife thrive.

Lake Garda, Italy

While the lavish shores of Lake Como may attract high-profile celebrities like George Clooney, when it comes to A-list environmentally-friendly hotspots, bigger is better! Not only does Lake Garda, Italy’s largest lake, have a direct rail connection from Milan, allowing visitors to leave their cars at home (or in the rental depot), it is also home to one of the country’s greenest hotels.

The beautiful Lefay Resort and Spa offsets 100 percent of its CO2 emissions, and 60 percent of its energy comes from renewable sources. Hi-tech design materials minimise heat and energy dispersion, and the roof is covered with vegetation to reduce sight pollution and promote local flora and fauna. Feeling guilty about the flight you hopped on to get to Milan? De-stress with a massage at the spa, the first in Italy to be given Ecocert’s Ecological Spa certificate.

Arosa, Switzerland

Arosa is home to Hotel Valsana, Switzerland’s first hotel to be heated by an “ice battery” – an energy recovery system which reuses surplus heat energy that would otherwise have been lost to the surrounding environment. This charming alpine resort village is helping the environment in other ways, too. Several hotels have electric car charging points, and there’s even a charging point in the centre of town that is free to use.

The area has also been given Alpine Pearl status – recognising its “green mobility” and eco-conscious practices – by the tourism association of the same name. This EU-funded organisation was set up to promote and support communities going above and beyond when it comes to sustainable tourism.

Galápagos Islands, Ecuador

A visit to the remote Galápagos Islands tops many people’s bucket list, but this same isolation, though incredibly attractive to travellers, can also require a motorcade of gas-guzzling transport options to get there. The good news? Several properties – such as the Pikaia Lodge – are going all out to protect this fragile environment and offset the environmental cost of getting there.

Believe it or not, this innovative carbon-neutral hotel is made with steel, chosen due to the ease with which it can be recycled. The walls are covered with lava stone collected from areas approved by the Galápagos National Park Service and the doors and furniture are made from sustainable teak.

First-timer's guide to the Galápagos Islands

The hotel has its own reforestation programme (10,000 endemic trees have been planted so far), and water comes from rooftop rain harvesting systems.

The majority of tour operators here come with environmentally-conscious credentials, but be sure to do your research before booking and, where possible, travel in a small group so as to have as little impact on the wildlife and natural environment as possible.

The Bahamas

A number of Bahamas properties are taking a more proactive approach to protecting the environment. Take Kamalame Cay on Andros island, which encourages guests to dine on lionfish (an invasive species which preys on indigenous fish and disrupts the local ecosystem) or The Other Side hotel, which is entirely solar-powered.

At Tiamo Resort, all products used are carefully vetted to minimise the risk of pollution, with rooftop solar panels used to help heat water. And to ensure continued support of local communities, the Tiamo Resort recruits all of its employees from the Bahamas.

Pangulasian Island, Philippines

Pangulasian Island in the Philippines is a paradisiacal bolthole for those in search of an eco-friendly escape. This private island resort is dedicated to supporting the local people through economic initiative. One such enterprise is teaching local women the traditional art of weaving, the products of which are then bought by and sold at the hotel.

There's also a wide-reaching nature conservation programme which oversees twice-monthly coastal clean-ups, measures to protect against illegal fishing, the installation of Eco Reefs (to help resuscitate damaged marine environments) and mooring buoys (to avoid continued anchor damage on coral reefs) as well as a turtle conservation programme.

The best beaches of the Philippines

Join in the efforts to protect new-born hatchlings as they make their first dash for the ocean and further your knowledge with an expert-led talk on wildlife and conservation.

And to keep this ecosystem in and of itself thriving, the staff here are also encouraged to submit proposals for environmentally-friendly initiatives, which are then trialled by the resort.

Werfenweng, Weissensee, Styria and Vienna, Austria

Werfenweng is a beautiful lakeside town which is changing the face of sustainable tourism. Anyone arriving at the train station (visitors are encouraged to leave their cars at home), can make use of a complimentary pick-up service, and for €10 can purchase a SAMO pass, granting you access to a fleet of green vehicles from e-cars to novelty buggies and bikes.

And Werfenweng isn’t alone. In Weissensee, Hotel Gralhof relies on a green energy wood chip heating system and has a fully organic kitchen, and the Styrian holiday resort of Ramsau operates the Ramsau Bioniere initiative, a selection of hotels, farms and guesthouses that display a commitment to reducing waste and energy consumption and championing organic produce.

Vienna is proof that being a green capital city needn’t involve compromising culture – in 2019, the Mercer Study voted it the world’s most liveable city. There are 2000 parks in the city, and the new Green Taxi scheme saw 370 hybrid and gas-powered taxis rolled out. Vienna also has more organic farmland than any other city (over 800 hectares and three city farms), 120 bike share stations and a network of cycling trails totalling 1300 kilometres.

Catalonia, Spain

Catalonia is the first entire region to obtain the Biosphere Responsible Tourism certification, a scheme backed by Unesco and the GTSC (Global Sustainable Tourism Council), in recognition of the symbiotic relationship between humans and nature in this region. And it’s easy for visitors to go green here; look for businesses with an EU Ecolabel, a certificate which spotlights environmentally-friendly, high-quality products and services.

Some of the region's most outstanding attractions include various former coal, lead and salt mines that have been turned into renewed cultural and environmental areas.

Walk in the fossilised footsteps of dinosaurs in the old open-air coal mines of Fígols-Vallcebre Fumanya, now a designated palaeontology site. Another great area is the Cardona Salt Mountain Cultural Park; after the mine closed in the 1990s the park now offers visitors the chance to learn about the region's unique natural geology.

Costa Rica

Costa Rica aims to become the world’s first carbon neutral country, and it’s on track to achieve this by 2021. Almost all of its electricity comes from renewable resources, and the UN was so impressed with conservation efforts that it made the country’s former president, Luis Guillermo Solís, a special ambassador to their World Tourism Organisation.

His next project is an environmentally friendly makeover of the world’s favourite caffeine fix – coffee. It’s Costa Rica’s biggest export, but also the biggest source of CO2 emissions. The Coffee Institute of Costa Rica has joined forces with the Ministry of Agriculture to develop a process which traps gas produced by decomposing coffee waste and uses it to power combustion engines.

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This article was originally published in December 2018 and updated in January 2021.

Into the green: eight destinations for an eco-friendly escape

Paris. London. New York. Our global cities are synonymous with innovation and all things cutting edge – yet as some of the world’s worst polluters, they’re far from future-proof when it comes to climate change.

Many cities world over have committed to creating a sustainable future for people and the planet. But can our busy urban centers really go green? From zero-waste restaurants to eco-friendly architecture, here’s how eight cities are leading the way.

Editor's note: during COVID-19 there are restrictions on travel. Check the latest guidance before departure, and always follow local health advice.

Copenhagen, Denmark

Copenhagen aims to be the world’s first carbon neutral capital by 2025 and is making good progress. Less than 2% of the city’s waste goes to landfill; the rest is recycled or converted into energy at Copenhill (Amager Resource Center), the city’s new waste-to-energy power plant, which doubles as an artificial ski slope.

Getting around Copenhagen has never been greener, with solar-powered boats and electric buses bolstering a network of well-established cycle routes and pedestrian-friendly streets – you can even swim in the harbor’s clean waters at Islands Brygge Havnebadet.

The zero-waste movement is growing too – hungry eco-warriors can stock up on snacks at packaging-free LØS Market or book a table at Amass, where "waste" ingredients such as stems, seeds and skins are transformed into tempting dishes or composted for the restaurant’s organic garden.

Portland, Oregon

Portland is a city literally made for lovers of the great outdoors; smart city planning, plentiful public parks and well-maintained urban forests complement the region’s natural attractions – including Mt Hood, which looms in the distance. The city is relatively pedestrian friendly and has the highest rate of biking to work of any US city.

In Portland, sustainability is all about community. An abundance of thrift shops, Little Free Libraries (a global movement adopted with gusto here), tool libraries, zero-waste pop-ups, vegan restaurants and make-do-and-mend-style workshops mean locals can easily embrace the mantra of "reduce, reuse, recycle".

Singapore

With a dense and growing population, Singapore ’s waste is on the rise, meaning the compact city-state’s only landfill site Semakau is set to fill up by 2035. But if this city’s anything it’s innovative, and its efforts to provide social, environmental and economic sustainability landed it the title of most sustainable city in Asia in 2018.

Famed attractions such as Gardens by the Bay, Jewel Changi and Marina One have been designed with sustainability in mind, and by 2030 80% of the city’s architecture will be eco-friendly. The zero-waste trend is also gathering pace; stores such as Ugly Food and UnPackt are changing the way Singaporeans stock up on kitchen essentials, while The Fashion Pulpit takes sustainable fashion to a whole new level with its membership-based clothes swapping system (cash purchases also available).

Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon was the EU Commission’s Green Capital for 2020, and with good reason. An extra 300 acres of park area have been added to the city, meaning 85% of people in Portugal ’s capital now live within 300m of a green space. The use of electric vehicles is accelerating, with plenty of car charging points, electric bike, scooter and moped sharing schemes and a new fleet of electric buses. Even the abundant tourist tuk-tuks have been electric since 2017.

For eco-friendly shopping head to LX Factory, a creative hub housing upcycled fashion boutiques, vegan footwear brands and sustainable homeware stores. Hungry? Shop for packaging-free supplies at Maria Granel or try daTerra Bairro Alto ’s vegan pastéis de nata.

Bengaluru, India

Bengaluru – India ’s answer to Silicon Valley – is the joint most congested city in the world (tying with Manilla) and while tech company commuters contribute to the traffic, they’re also creating solutions. Local scooter rental company Bounce, which has added 1000 electric scooters to its fleet, Yulu e-bikes and carpooling app Quickride are all working to reduce traffic in the city.

The eco-conscious trend is growing too. You can now pick up packaging-free groceries and eco-friendly beauty products at Green Mantra Store; sip freshly-made juice from a fruit-skin or coconut-shell cup at Eat Raja; or stay at environmentally-aware Cuckoo hostel, which offers bike rental, a terrace garden and is furnished with upcycled materials.

Vancouver, Canada

With forests, mountains and beaches all within reach, Vancouver has plenty of incentive to do its bit for the planet. Over 122,000 trees have been planted here since 2010 (with the aim of reaching 150,000); the city’s emissions are amongst the lowest in North America; and it is aiming to go entirely zero-waste by 2040 – a movement reflected in grocery stores and cafes such as Nada and Kind Cafe.

From neighborhood clean-up parties to shared gardens, community sits at the heart of many of Vancouver’s eco-friendly initiatives. Vancouver Public Library has a green roof – which helps manage rainwater, regulates the building temperature and provides a habitat for bees – as well as an accessible rooftop garden, which comes complete with drought-resistant native plants and solar panels; and the 17 mile (28km) Seaside Greenway (the longest uninterrupted waterfront path in the world) connects many of Vancouver’s public spaces, including the Stanley Park Seawall.

Ljubljana, Slovenia

Slovenia is known for its pristine countryside – but even its capital offers visitors a breath of fresh air. Liveable Ljubljana is extremely clean and increasingly green: streets are washed with rain and recycled water; over 10 hectares of the city center are pedestrianized; and new cutting-edge waste management systems mean the city sends 80% less waste to landfill than it did in 2008 – with the goal to reduce that to just 60kg per person per year by 2025.

Ljubljana was the first European city to commit to a zero-waste goal. The city’s waste management company Voka Snaga even operates a zero-waste vending machine that sells organic cleaning products, shampoos, vinegar and oil to customers who bring their own reusable packaging, while Rifuzl expands the offering in a bricks and mortar store.

San Francisco, California

San Francisco was the first city in the US to ban plastic bags, and plastic straws and utensils have been outlawed since July 2019. The city sends less trash to landfill than any other in the country, with 80% of its waste being recycled, composted or reused.

What’s good for the animals is good for the planet, and you’ll find a plethora of plant-based restaurants in SF (we recommend Beloved Cafe and Gracias Madre), while bulk store Rainbow Grocery is a local institution. Want to work off those vegan treats? Don’t let those hilly streets deter you – San Francisco is the second most walkable city in the US.

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The idea of zero-waste travel may sound like a load of rubbish. But with so many restaurants, stores and hotels going plastic-free and composting (there are enough to fill an entire book), zero-waste journeys are becoming a reality in the 2020s.

Zero waste is a concept that's been around for a while but is new to the world of travel. Made popular by journalist Bea Johnson's bestselling book, Zero Waste Home, it's now a global movement. The idea is to make a home, community or even region free of disposable waste. It encourages less consumption and buying recyclable or biodegradable products, rather than sending waste to landfill sites, incinerators and our oceans. The basic guideline is adhering to the 5 Rs – Refuse, Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Rot.

With growing numbers of people actively reducing their garbage at home, it’s not surprising that travelers are now looking for ways to keep their waste down when they’re away. Aside from offsetting your carbon footprint, zero waste is about taking the 5 Rs on the road. This is not always easy, so you’ll need to use the 6th R – a bit of Research.

Some destinations, such as the idyllic Italian island of Capri, have already banned single-use plastics and the rest of the EU is due to follow in 2021. Boulder, Austin and San Francisco are just some US cities that have signed up to become zero waste (or darn near) by 2040.

But is this enough? According to the UN, an estimated eight million tonnes of plastic waste enters our oceans every year. And the numbers get worse: one million seabirds die each year from ingesting plastic and one million plastic drinking bottles are purchased every minute.
Of course, travelers alone are not to blame for the waste crisis. The soft drinks, food packaging and plastic production industries are due a shake-up, but our travel choices also matter. Here are some places where you can be part of the solution and not the problem.

Editor's note: during COVID-19 there are restrictions on travel. Check the latest guidance before departure, and always follow local health advice.

Visionary cities

Cities are often associated with high pollution, but they are also where creative solutions are born and thrive. In fact, a number of cities around the world are leading the zero-waste movement and encourage travelers to take part.

Amsterdam, the Netherlands

Amsterdam could win the "Most-Accomplished Zero-Waste City" award. Bring your own containers to fill up with organic produce at the Albert Cuyp Food Market, stay at one of the city’s Conscious Hotels or fish for plastic on a canal boat with Plastic Whale.

Ljubljana, Slovenia

Dubbing itself the "First Zero-Waste City", the Slovenian capital proudly recycles 70% of its waste. Package-free vending machines, rows of recycling bins and zero-waste shops like Rifuzl are just some reasons why it’s ahead of the pack.

Vancouver, Canada

Like the EU, in 2021 Vancouver introduces a ban on plastic straws, polystyrene packaging and free shopping bags. Stay at the waste-free Listel Hotel and visit the Zero Waste Centre to see how everything can be reused or recycled.

Best of the bulk buys

The rise of zero-waste stores is a relatively recent phenomenon, but there are already thousands of shops worldwide where food is delivered and sold without plastic packaging and shoppers can refill using their own containers.

The Hive, Malaysia

Malaysians are acutely aware of plastic pollution; until recently it was one of the biggest importers of waste from richer nations. The Hive Bulk Foods in Kuala Lumpur tries to redress the balance with a diverse range of unpackaged groceries, oils and toiletries.

Precycle, USA

The first package-free store in New York, Precycle in Brooklyn partners with local farms only and lets shoppers buy in bulk. This means no plastic, no cardboard and no waste.

Restaurants without trash

Plastic-free or free plastic? While fast-food chains may be a major cause of waste, a growing crop of zero-waste restaurants has designed their menus and preparation purely with the garbage in mind.

Silo, UK

You won’t find a single bin at Silo, a hip restaurant in the Hackney Wick suburb of London. Run by eco-chef Douglas McMaster, the kitchen’s food scraps are put into compost and ingredients are sourced locally.

Copacabana Surf Village, Senegal

Fed up with the amount of plastic waste washing up on the shores of Virage Beach in Dakar, Babacar Thiaw turned his father’s surf shop into West Africa ’s first zero-waste bar and restaurant.

Frea, Berlin

Frea in Berlin offers fresh, waste-free, vegan food, from delicious salads to puff pastries. Its bread and pasta are made with flour from Bavaria, and it makes its own hazelnut milk and uses a compost machine.

Non-trash trips and activities

Responsible travel was always about "treading lightly" – causing as little impact as possible to nature. But some travelers want to go one step further and protect the places they explore.

Yellowstone National Park, USA

Safari America, run by Natural Habitat, is a zero-waste adventure trip in the vast Yellowstone National Park. Travelers are equipped with reusable water bottles, there is a TerraCycle recycling system on vehicles, and emissions are offset through reforestation.

Tel Aviv, Israel

Tel Aviv ’s beaches rank third highest for plastic waste in the Mediterranean. But the city has a growing zero-waste community, Plastic Free Israel, through which travelers can participate in waste workshops and regular beach clean-ups with the whole family.

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How zero-waste travel is becoming a reality

A few years ago, sleeper trains were said to be dying out – made redundant by high-speed trains and cheap flights. But in this environmentally aware era the overnight train journey is staging a welcome comeback, especially in its European heartland.

Editor's note: during COVID-19 there are restrictions on travel. Check the latest guidance before departure, and always follow local health advice.

Why trains beat flights

We all know the drill – daydream about taking a break, find a cheap airfare and book it, then endure the hassle of getting to a distant airport and being squeezed into sardine class before the holiday fun actually begins. Sometimes, however, catching a train to your destination is an option, and the rail journey then becomes an enjoyable part of your holiday, rather than a necessary means to an end. As the countryside rolls by your window, a train trip eases you into a relaxed mindset, ready to enjoy your vacation.

The versatility of the night train

A particular type of train, the sleeper train, takes that rail advantage and magnifies it. It has the usual benefit of departing and arriving closer to city centers than any airport, but with the added bonus of passengers being able to stretch out and sleep for much of the trip. Not only does that negate the expense of one night's accommodation, but sleeper trains are generally timed to leave in the evening and arrive first thing – leaving entire days free for sightseeing. Sleeper berths often come in attractive levels of comfort and price, too – from a couchette with several berths in a shared dorm-style arrangement, up to private single-bed berths of varying levels of luxury.

Food is usually available, allowing you to sit and eat in a far more civilised manner than from a plastic tray at seat 36,000ft. Some sleeper trains have cafe-bars serving simple snacks and drinks, others have a full-scale dining car cooking hot meals served on crockery. Either way, they’ll have seating which allows you to dine while gazing out the window at the passing world and chatting with fellow travelers. And if you happen to book a train without a dining car (always check in advance), there’s nothing more pleasant then assembling a picnic of local foods before departure, then enjoying it on board.

Going green by rail

So why has there been this sudden turnaround in the fortunes of sleeper trains, and why should travelers embrace the trend? One word (and it’s a Swedish one): flygskam. Meaning "flight shame", it signifies an environmental movement which has sprung up in the wake of the climate change activism of Greta Thunberg and others. Citing the high level of carbon emissions caused by commercial flights, its proponents have vowed to travel by surface means, and the sleeper train is key.

Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) is the hero at the heart of this story, having picked up the baton dropped by German operator Deutsche Bahn when it abandoned its own sleeper routes a few years ago. ÖBB is now reporting great success with its refurbished and increased Nightjet services across Europe, meeting rising demand from environmentally conscious travelers. On a roll, ÖBB has also revived dormant overnight routes such as Vienna to Brussels. Other operators (including Sweden’s) are planning new sleeper train routes such as Malmö-Copenhagen-Cologne, with connections to London and other major cities.

In addition to trains run by national rail companies, a range of privately run sleeper trains around the world offer luxurious journeys via upmarket "rail cruises". Sleeper trains may have seemed lost in the past – but thanks to flygskam, they’re once again part of the future.

Ten of the best sleeper train routes

Vienna to Brussels: This useful Nightjet train passes from Austria through major German cities en route to the Belgian capital.
Warsaw to Kiev : Ride this atmospheric old-school sleeper train, which requires a wheel adjustment for Ukraine’s different rail gauge in the middle of the night.
Spirit of the Outback : Comfortable Australian sleeper train heading from Brisbane to Longreach, in the heart of the Outback.
Eastern & Oriental Express: You’ll be dressing for dinner aboard this luxury train as it runs from Bangkok to Singapore with sightseeing excursions in Thailand and Malaysia.
Coast Starlight: Features ocean and mountain views as it progresses from Los Angeles via Oakland and Portland to Seattle, USA.
The Ocean: Go to sleep in Montreal, awake to the lakes of New Brunswick, then arrive at the Atlantic coastline of Halifax, Canada.
Pride of Africa: Traveling through South Africa between Cape Town and Pretoria, this top-notch train offers fine dining and sightseeing.
Belgrade to Bar: Night train traveling from Serbia through spectacular mountain scenery to Montenegro ’s Adriatic coast.
Ankara to Baku: This brand-new sleeper train service was due to launch in 2019 but has been delayed. Once it is running, it will head from the Turkish capital via Tbilisi, Georgia, to the shores of the Caspian Sea in Azerbaijan.
Caledonian Sleeper: Sip a fine whiskey as this upgraded sleeper service with all-new carriages heads from London to destinations across Scotland.

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Travel trends for 2021: the revival of the sleeper train

The UN considers volunteerism indispensable to achieving its Sustainable Development Goals, though it’s important to remember that not all volunteer-abroad programs are created equal. "To get the most out of volunteering you need to put effort into choosing who you go with and what you do," says Dr. Kate Simpson, an expert advisor on Lonely Planet’s Volunteer: A Traveller’s Guide to Making a Difference Around the World who has spent years researching and working in the international volunteering industry. These questions are designed to help you learn as much as possible about the quality, value and sustainability of volunteer projects before you dedicate your annual leave to one.

What work will I be doing?

An organization with a good volunteer program should be able to tell you what sort of work you will be doing, including how many hours a day and how many days a week, and with which host organization, well in advance of the project start date. A typical source of dissatisfaction for volunteers is not doing what they planned (and paid) to do.

Does the organization work with a local partner?

If a volunteer program is to be of value to a local community it should work in collaboration with, rather than be imposed on, that community. Find out who that partner is and how the relationship works. Is someone from the local organization involved in the day-to-day management of your project? What sort of local consultation took place to build the project? Why is the project of value?

What time frame is the volunteer program run on?

A well-structured volunteer program should have a clear time frame, and organizations should know from one year to the next whether a program will continue. One-off programs, and especially placements, can be problematic. If you are acting as a teaching assistant for a month, what happens the rest of the school year? Are other volunteers sent or is the placement simply ended? It may also be very disruptive for children to have constantly changing staff. Establishing the level of commitment an organization has to a given project or placement is vital in establishing the quality, and therefore value, of that volunteer program.

Does the organization have safeguarding policies?

All volunteer organizations should have a safeguarding policy for children and vulnerable adults, whether they work with them or not, and programs that work directly with children must include child protection training for volunteers. Similarly, high-welfare wildlife sanctuaries have policies to protect wildlife (restrictions on human-animal contact are common), with appropriate training provided to volunteers. Volunteer organizations should also be able to tell you how they work to minimize the environmental footprint of their programs.

What support and training will you receive?

Organizations offer vastly different levels of training and support. Look for one that offers not only pre-departure training but also in-country training and support. Learning about both the practicalities of your volunteer job and the culture of where you are traveling to will help you get and give the most. Local support is also important, but ask if "local" means just across the road or several hours away by bus. Make sure there is somebody in the country with direct responsibility for you. All projects require problem-solving at some point and you will need someone on hand to help you with this.

What financial contributions does the organization make to its volunteer programs?

Volunteer programs need funds as well as labour, so ask where your money is going, and be persistent about getting a clear figure, not a percentage of profits. Also, be aware that payments for your food and lodging often do not assist your volunteer program.

Why do you want to volunteer?

Don’t forget to analyse your intentions for volunteering. Do you legitimately want to give back to the less fortunate, or are you more interested in seeking validation from your peers on social media, or using the experience as career leverage? If you approach volunteering with the curiosity and humility to learn, you – and the project – will get much more out of it.

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This excerpt is from Lonely Planet's Sustainable Escapes book. It first published in March 2020 and updated in December 2020.

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How to choose a sustainable volunteering project

The Orient Express has had many incarnations: capture its original spirit of transcontinental travel with this journey to the cusp of Asia on ordinary sleeper trains. Paris was generally considered the western terminus of the Orient Express in its early 20th-century heyday. Today you can get to Paris from London St Pancras (2½ hours) as well as Barcelona Sants (6½ hours) and Amsterdam (3½ hours). Here's how to spend around two weeks on a fascinating low-carbon train journey through Europe.

Editor's note: Although the pandemic has derailed most travel plans this year, we're continuing to publish travel articles to inspire your future journeys. Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and follow government advice.

Paris

In June 1889 the first Orient Express through-train from Paris to Istanbul departed from Gare de L’Est. Sadly no such regular service exists today, but Gare de L’Est is still a departure point for eastbound trains. Before boarding, take a short walk to the Bassin de la Villette – an artificial lake whose shores are dotted with cafes. Pools here are open to swimmers throughout the summer months.

Moving on

From Paris, catch one of about 20 services a day to Munich Hauptbahnhof (six hours). Book tickets with SNCF.

Munich

Another stalwart stop on the original Orient Express, Munich ’s Hauptbahnhof station sits on the threshold of the Altstadt (Old Town) – a magnificent maze of onion-domed towers and cobbled thoroughfares meriting at least a full day’s exploration. Leave time to sink a stein in the Hofbräuhaus – the city’s 16th-century beer hall. Explore the palatial corridors of the Residenz or stretch your legs in the sprawling parkland of the Englischer Garten ahead of your first sleeper on this itinerary.

Moving on

The EuroNight sleeper train runs from Munich Hauptbahnhof to Budapest Keleti, departing at 11:20pm and arriving shortly after 9am. Book tickets in advance with Deutsche Bahn.

Budapest

There’s no better place in Europe to soothe travel-weary limbs than Budapest, where ornate spas bubble away on both banks of the Danube. A walk north of Keleti station will take you to the art nouveau Széchenyi Baths – one of the city’s largest, set in leafy parkland. Alternatively, cross the river in the shadow of Castle Hill in search of the Gellért Baths, a cathedral-like structure, whose thermal waters have been put to use since the Ottomans ruled the city.

Read more: A guide to Budapest’s thermal baths

Moving on

The Ister sleeper train departs Budapest Keleti at 7:05pm and reaches Bucharest Gara de Nord at 12:30pm the following day. Book tickets with Mav Start.

Bucharest

It may have few landmark sights compared with other European capitals, but Bucharest ’s appeal is of the slow-burn sort: lingering on cafe-lined thoroughfares, exploring its excellent museums or contemplating the dark relics of dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu. Of the latter, the most visible is the Palace of Parliament – one of the largest buildings in the world, covering some 3.5 million sq ft and open to visitors for guided tours.

Moving on

From June to October, direct services run from Bucharest Gara de Nord to Istanbul Halkalı, departing 12.40pm and arriving 7.40am the next day. From Halkalı, complimentary bus services run to Istanbul’s Sirkeci railway station. During the rest of the year, connect via Dimitrovgrad in Bulgaria. Book tickets with CFR Calatori.

İstanbul

İstanbul ’s grand Sirkeci station was the easterly terminus of the Orient Express, and there could be no better finishing line for an epic rail adventure. You’ll find the minarets of the Blue Mosque to the south, labyrinthine bazaars to the west, the fishers of the Galata Bridge to the north and to the east the Bosphorus with the city’s Asian shore beyond.

Returning home

The quickest way to return to Paris overland is to retrace your steps – or consider a more southerly route connecting to Munich via Sofia, Belgrade, Zagreb and Ljubljana.

Need to know

Carbon: 52kg per person
Distance: 2600km
Nights: 12+
Transport budget: €600

You might also like:

How sustainable are planes, trains and coaches on top European routes?
Europe’s top 10 scenic rail journeys
Europe's best night trains

This excerpt is from Lonely Planet's Low-Carbon Europe book.

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