Worth a Trip: Beyond the Mountains, to the Traslasierra Valley
Literally translated as 'beyond the mountains,' the Traslasierra is the least developed and most sparsely populated of the valleys surrounding Córdoba. It lies 150km west of the city along RP 20 across the Camino de las Altas Cumbres (Way of the High Peaks). In summertime, Argentine families come to this enchanting area to swim in its pretty rivers and go horseback riding, kayaking and gorge walking.
Mina Clavero is the center of the valley's tourist activity but it’s worth heading off the beaten trail to explore other, more secluded spots. The sweet village of Nono is home to the quirky Museo Rocsen, a lovely riverfront with great swimming spots, and what many claim are the best alfajores (cookie-type sandwiches usually stuffed with dulce de leche) in the province, at El Nazareno. Also check out the rose-filled town of Villa de las Rosas and the adorable adjacent villages of San Javier and Yacanto, leafy postcard-pretty hideaways backed by dramatic mountain views.
While the area is filled with lodging options of all kinds and for every budget, the gorgeous Posada La Matilde is a standout; its farm-to-table restaurant (mains AR$210 to AR$280) serves delicious dishes prepared with ingredients from its own organic biodynamic farm. In the nearby village of Yacanto, don't miss a meal at Hotel Yacanto, an English-style hotel from 1922 which is known for its great golfing and homemade food.