Top things to do

Top Choice Carnival in Quebrada de Humahuaca

Carnaval

Argentina's most intriguing Carnaval celebrations take place right the length of the Quebrada de Humahuaca in February/March. Indigenous traditions have melded with the customs of the Spanish conquerors to create th…
Top Choice Mountain in Humahuaca

Serranía de Hornocal

Twenty-five kilometers east of Humahuaca, this jagged row of rock 'teeth' offers utterly spectacular colors. Tours run here but it's driveable in a normal car with care. It's prettiest from 4pm onward, when the west…
Top Choice Cafe in Tilcara

Ma'koka

With a gloriously eclectic music mix and interesting texts on the area and the Andes in general, this excellent bookstore-cafe has the best coffee in town, tasty cakes and top sandwiches on bread made from coca or l…
Top Choice Argentine in Iruya

Comedor Iruya

By far the best place to eat in town is this local favorite on the road into town just before the gas station. Genial Juan and Tina serve delicious home-style meat and salad dishes in a cozy atmosphere. It's an abso…
Top Choice Church in Quebrada de Humahuaca

Iglesia de Susques

Susques is well worth a stop for its terrific village church. Dating from 1598, it has a thatched roof, cactus-wood ceiling and beaten-earth floor, as well as charismatic, naïve paintings of saints on the whitewashe…
Top Choice Argentine in Tilcara

El Nuevo Progreso

An engaging atmosphere and delicious tourist-oriented cuisine features imaginatively prepared llama dishes, excellent meat plates, interesting veggie options and great salads. Service can be a bit stand-offish but i…
Ruins in Tilcara

Pucará

This reconstructed pre-Columbian fortification is 1km south of the center across an iron bridge. Its situation is strategic, commanding the river valley both ways and, though the site was undoubtedly used earlier, t…
Museum in Around Tilcara

La Posta de Hornillos

Part of a chain that ran from Lima to Buenos Aires during viceregal times, La Posta de Hornillos is a beautifully restored staging post 11km south of Tilcara. Founded in 1772 it was the scene of several important ba…
Church in Uquía

Iglesia de Uquía

It’s not often that you imagine the heavenly host armed with muzzle-loading weapons, but in this roadside village’s picturesque 17th-century church that’s just what you see. A restored collection of Cuzco-school pai…
Argentine in Tilcara

Los Puestos

Though a little touristy – we can’t guarantee you won’t be treated to a rendition of ‘Sounds of Silence’ on the panpipes at lunchtime – this makes up ground with its decor of local stone and chunky wood. Tasty regio…