Inaugurated in 2004, this fine coastal national park protects over 600 sq km of striking headlands and archetypal Patagonian steppe, and 40km of dramatic coastline with bays, beaches and tidal flats. Once a hunting ground for nomads, and later frequented by the Tehuelche, this former estancia is home to abundant Magellanic penguins, sea lions, guanacos and pumas. Bring binoculars: the wildlife watching is prime.
Nature trails split off from the main road, leading to the coast. The penguin trail crosses the steppe, leading to an overlook of the rookery. It’s forbidden to leave the trail, but seeing these 75,000 couples shouldn’t be difficult. The roundtrip takes 1½ hours. Cars can reach the prominent cliff Cabeza de León (Lion’s Head), where a 20-minute trail leads to the sea-lion colony.
For boat excursions or fly fishing for steelhead, consult with the park office.