Argentine in La Rioja

Smart and enthusiastic, Orígenes occupies a corner of a handsome 19th-century school now turned into a cultural center. It draws on local traditions but adds a modern chef's expertise. The result is a refreshing jolt if you've had weeks of typical Argentine fare.

It does a range of interesting pastas including a smoked trout ravioli, and rabbit roasted with potatoes and pancetta. The salads are meals in themselves. Prices are more than fair.