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You'll earn your nomadic stripes at the rough and ready, old-school bus terminal where you'll step over sleeping dogs and humans to board connections to Jujuy (AR$230, four to five hours), Salta (AR$360, eight hours) and Buenos Aires (AR$1900, 27 hours). There is no transportation to Bolivia, but a few Argentine long-distance buses leave directly from the bus station over the border in Villazón.

After leaving the Quebrada de Humahuaca, paved RN 9 passes through Abra Pampa, a windy town 90km north of Humahuaca, and climbs through picturesque altiplano landscapes.

Border Crossings

Bolivia via La Quiaca

From La Quiaca to Villazón, Bolivia, walk or take a taxi to the bridge, then clear immigration (open 24 hours). Bolivia is much nicer than Villazón promises, so head past the cut-price stalls and straight to the bus terminal or train station. Cheap but reliable accommodations are near the bus terminal and plaza if you need them. Buses and minibuses head to Tupiza (1½ hours), La Paz (20 hours) and elsewhere. The train station (see for timetables) is 1.5km north of the border, and serves Tupiza (three hours), Uyuni (nine hours) and beyond. Bolivia is one hour behind northern Argentina. For a quick Villazón visit, clear Argentine immigration but don't get stamped into Bolivia (technically illegal but nobody minds). La Quiaca has a Bolivian Consulate.