Top things to do

Top Choice Italian in Esquel

Don Chiquino

Of course, pasta is no novelty in Argentina, but the owner-magician performing tricks while you wait for your meal is. The ambience is happy-cluttered and dishes such as sorrentinos with arugula prove satisfying.
Museum in Esquel

Museo de Culturas Originarias Patagónicas

Displays a modest collection of Mapuche artifacts; La Trochita stops here, 20km east of Esquel.
Cafe in Esquel

María Castaña

A favorite at this frilly cafe is waffles with dulce de leche; it’s also good for breakfast, sandwiches and ice-cream sundaes. Grab an overstuffed chair at the back. It also serves more substantial fare.
Argentine in Esquel

La Abuela

Shoehorn yourself into this family nook decked out in lace tablecloths, and enjoy cheap gnocchi, homemade pasta and home-cooked classics like puchero (vegetable and meat stew) with a carafe of passable house wine.
in Esquel


Relaxed and warm, this brick yuppie watering hole is ideal for a glass of wine or cup of joe, plus decent sandwiches, pasta and pizza.
Pub Food in Esquel


Don’t let the Irish-pub atmosphere fool you into thinking this is just another stock-standard watering hole: the restaurant serves up good set lunches, too, and a range of hearty soups, salads and sandwiches, with G…
Argentine in Esquel

La Luna

This chic rock ’n’ roll restaurant-bar offers tasty spinach pizza, vegetable crepes, and heaped portions of steak and fries. The evening crowd spills out of wooden booths and brick nooks, drinking Patagonia’s artisa…
in Esquel

Casa Grande

Dig into flavorful jabalí (wild boar), baked trout and lamb with roasted potatoes at this fine-dining spot, specializing in regional cuisine. The rambling house with burlwood chandeliers offers plenty of atmosphere.
Bar in Esquel

Hotel Argentino

This lanky and lowbrow Wild West saloon is much better suited to drinking than sleeping, but by all means stop by: the owner is friendly, the 1916 construction is stuffed with relics and sculptures, and the place ge…
Museum in Esquel

Museo del Tren

Just outside town, this train museum is in the Roca train station where La Trochita, Argentina’s famous narrow-gauge steam train, stops. In summer several tour agencies sell tickets for roundtrip rides on the antiqu…