A perfect day in Kōchi City
Enjoy a fascinating day in Kōchi, a captivating, proud Shikoku city of over 328,000, an off-the-beaten-track gem, seldom seen on the itinerary of foreign visitors to Japan.
In centuries past, Kōchi prefecture, or Tosa as it was known, was thought of as isolated, rugged and wild, cut off from the rest of Japan by mountains and rough seas. It was the ‘testing ground’ for those walking the 88 Sacred Temples of Shikoku pilgrimage and pilgrims breathed a sigh of relief after trudging around its 16 temples and none-too-pacific Pacific coast. This perceived isolation has produced a proud, independent, tough-of-spirit populace, keen to share their attractive city and prefecture with those who make the effort to go.
A top place to stay is Richmond Hotel, in an ideal location in the heart of the action of the Obiyamachi shopping arcade and the city’s entertainment district, a kilometre or so south of JR Kōchi station. Spotless, modern rooms and professional service meet all expectations of the efficiency of modern Japan. Only a short stroll away is Harimaya-bashi, a tiny replica of a red bridge made famous by song and film throughout Japan.
A busy morning
There’s a good breakfast on offer at the hotel, but if you’ve timed your visit for a Sunday (highly recommended), head to Kōchi’s legendary Sunday Market, only a short stroll away on Ōte-suji, the main road heading west towards the castle. Going strong for over 300 years, you’ll find more than 400 stalls selling everything imaginable, including foods for snacking. The market is an all-day affair, kicking in at 5am and running through to 6pm (5.30am–5pm Oct–Mar).
As you head west through the market, Kōchi-jō (Kōchi Castle) will come into view. Pass over the moat, through Ōtemon (the Main Gate) and feel free to wander the gorgeous grounds. It’s well worth the effort to climb the stone steps up to the castle itself, perched high above the city. Admire the stone walls, wooden castle and impressive views out over the prefectural capital.
Back down and out the main gate, drop in to the modern Kōchi Castle Museum of History, an architectural masterpiece in its own right that opened in 2017. Exhibitions on the history of Tosa and Kōchi (the name changed during the Meiji restoration of the late 1860s) are fascinating and views of the castle are superb.
A highlight nearby for lunch is Hirome Ichiba, with dozens of mini-restaurants and bars offering everything from gomoku rāmen (seafood noodles) to tako-yaki (octopus balls). It’s a massive, vibrant food and bar hall and the hub of Kōchi's cheap-eats scene. On weekends, it positively heaves with locals and tourists drinking hard and happy. You may want to return here for a pre-dinner drink later in the day.
Afternoon options
Kōchi offers some fun options for the afternoon. One is to head about 10km west of town by tram to visit the Ino Japanese Paper Museum, where you can discover the history and development of washi (Japanese paper) and see demonstrations of nagashizuki papermaking techniques.
Another option is to head a few kilometres east of the central city to the lookout point at the top of Godaisan, a small mountain covered in parkland. Also here, you’ll find Chikurin-ji, Temple 31 of the 88 Sacred Temples and by the temple's entrance gate, the Kōchi Prefectural Makino Botanical Garden, a beautiful network of gardens and parkland.
Alternatively, head 12km south of the central city to Katsura-hama, at the point where Kōchi's harbour empties out into the Pacific Ocean. While strong currents take swimming off the agenda, the beach is great for a stroll and you’ll find Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum, with exhibits dedicated to the life of a local hero who was instrumental in bringing about the Meiji Restoration in the 1860s.
When it’s time for dinner, you won’t need to walk far from your hotel. The city has some excellent eating spots, none better than Myōjin-maru Umeno, where you can try a Kōchi specialty, chargrilled katsuo-no-tataki. This is seared bonito, sometimes known as skipjack tuna, a deep maroon in colour and extremely tasty. You can even sear it yourself at this popular restaurant.
It’s only a short walk to Tosa-shu Baru, a popular bar not to be missed if you’d like to try some local sake on the way back to the hotel. This place has offerings from all 18 sake breweries in Kōchi prefecture, three daily-changing nomi-kurabe (tasting sets) and serves superb small dishes featuring local produce. Owner Kōji is a fountain of sake knowledge and plays great jazz.
Further afield
There’s more in store should you have a day or two up your sleeve to explore southwest Kōchi prefecture. Easily reached by express train in less than two hours from JR Kōchi station, but best explored by rental car, the Shimanto River is known throughout Japan for its beauty and as the country’s last undammed river. Bike beside it, paddle on it or take a ride in a traditional small boat called a yakata-bune.
You’ll want a rental car to explore further south where you’ll find one of the most magnificent sandy beaches in all Japan, 1.6km-long and almost always deserted Ōkinohama, a perfect place for a swim.
From there, it’s not much further south to Ashizuri-misaki, Shikoku’s southernmost cape and the site of the Kongōfuku-ji, Temple 38 of the 88 sacred temples. In centuries past, the devoted set out from the cape by boat in their search for Fudaraku, the blessed realm of Kannon, goddess of mercy – and paradise in this lifetime – never to be heard from again. Stand back from the edge of Cape Ashizuri’s precipitous cliffs and stay in the realm of the living – there’s still a lot more to experience in Kōchi prefecture.
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