There is no bus station in Shkodra, but most services leave from around Sheshi Demokracia in the centre of town. There are hourly furgon (shared minibus; 400 lekë) and buses (300 lekë) to Tirana (two hours, 6am to 5pm), which depart from outside Radio Shkodra near Hotel Rozafa. There are also several daily buses to Kotor, Ulcinj and Podgorica in Montenegro (€5 to €8, two to three hours) from outside the Ebu Bekr Mosque.
To get up into the mountains, catch the 6.30am bus to Lake Koman (600 lekë, two hours) in time for the wonderful Lake Koman Ferry to Fierzë. Several furgon also depart daily for Theth between 6am and 7am (1200 lekë, four hours). In both cases, hotels can call ahead to get the furgon to pick you up on its way out of town.
It costs between €40 and €50 for the trip from Shkodra to Ulcinj in Montenegro, depending on your haggling skills. A private hire vehicle to Theth costs around €50. Ask at your hotel.
Although there's a train station, there's no longer any functioning passenger trains.