This charming family home deep in the Mangalem Quarter below the castle is the setting for one of Berat's best restaurants. Lili speaks English and will invite you to take a table in his backyard where you can order a meal of traditional Berati cooking. We heartily recommend the gjize ferges, a delicious mash of tomato, garlic and cheese.
To get here, keep going down the narrow flower-lined cobbled street around the top side of the Hotel Belgrad Mangalem, and you'll find the house, signed on the right-hand side, about 200m further on. It's sensible to reserve a table in advance as space is limited.