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Getting there & away

The national carrierYemenia(303444; fax 352365; Al-Ghar al-Amar St) has flights to Aden (US$70), San’a (US$80) and Suqutra (US$50). Quotes are for one-way fares; for return fares, simply double the price.

Buses run to Aden (YR2000, around 10 hours, one daily) and San’a (YR1800, 12 hours, two daily). For Sayun, take a shared taxi.

Shared taxis run to Aden (YR2000, 10 hours, several daily), Bir ’Ali (YR500 or YR3000 contract, two hours, two daily), and Sayun (YR1500, five hours, three daily). Note that for all these journeys a travel permit is required (and should have been obtained in San’a first, though if you’ve just arrived from Oman you can get one at the police station here), and for the Aden and San’a routes a police escort.

The airport (based at Ar-Rayyan) lies 40km from Al-Mukalla. Contract taxis cost YR1200 (and take 30 minutes), but negotiate the fare before hopping in.

Almost as common as the flies are the minibuses, which provide a cheap form of intercity transport. Travellers might want to make use of them to get from the old centre to the far end of the Corniche. Journeys cost YR20 and to hail one just wave it down.