Washington DC: Itineraries

Our stroll through this neighbourhood begins where the nightly network news always seems to begin: on the north side of the White House in Lafayette Sq. In the 19th century, Lafayette Sq (named for the Marquis de Lafayette, the Revolutionary War hero) was an orchard lined with the mansions of the rich and powerful. The writer Henry Adams, who lived in a mansion on its northern edge, described it thus: 'Lafayette Square was society... Beyond the square, the country began.'

Among the square's remaining Victorian homes is Decatur House (748 Jackson Pl). Around the corner at 1 Lafayette Sq, the Hay-Adams Hotel is exclusive, luxurious accommodation that was built on the site of Henry Adams' old mansion. Across the street, St John's Church has a pew permanently reserved for presidential families.

Circle around the square to Pennsylvania Ave NW, which runs between Lafayette Sq and the White House. Until recently, it was a central thoroughfare, but after two threatening incidents in 1994 the portion in front of the White House was closed to car traffic. Now concrete blockades and a heightened security presence add an imposing imperial air to the White House, but they also make the area a more pleasant pedestrian walkway.

Pass in front of the White House, which is almost dwarfed by the wonderfully baroque Old Executive Office Building, where White House staff work. Across the street, the national crafts museum, the Renwick Gallery, is housed in a historic mansion at the corner of 17th St NW.

Turn left on 17th St and walk three blocks to New York Ave. Walk west on New York Ave to the oddly shaped but appropriately named Octagon Museum. Across the street, blooming magnolias and gurgling goldfish ponds decorate Rawlins Park - a remarkably peaceful place considering it's named for US Grant's secretary of war.

Back on 17th St, the beautiful beaux-arts building at No 500 is the Corcoran Gallery of Art, a magnificent collection of American and European art. If you need a break, the Café des Artistes, on the 1st floor, is a delightful lunch spot.

The Ellipse is the expansive park across the street. Its northernmost point provides you the classic photo opportunity: the White House facade, in dignified remove across its private South Lawn. Walk around the elliptical road that circles the park.

At the north edge, the Zero Milestone is the stone marker from which all US highway distances are measured. In December, the National Christmas Tree is illuminated here. Along the southern edge, you cannot miss the Second Division Memorial with its giant golden hand thrusting forth a flaming sword.

Make your way around the Ellipse and back to 17th St NW. Head south to admire the rest of the monumental buildings along this row: the pillared, marble Red Cross HQ (1730 E St NW); the stately Memorial Continental Building housing the Daughters of the American Revolution (1776 D St); and the Organization of American States, in the marble palazzo at the corner of Constitution Ave. All have exhibits open to the public. Or you could just kick back in the sculpture-studded Aztec Gardens skirting the OAS.