Denver: Getting there & around

Denver International Airport (DEN), 40km (24mi) northeast of downtown, is among the nation's ten busiest. It's served by some 20 airlines, though most flights are run by United Airlines. You should have little trouble finding a flight (or at least a connector) to anywhere you're heading in the US. Most major car rental companies have booths at the Ground Transportation Center on the 5th level near baggage claim. Vans, shuttles and taxis also queue up outside the 5th level doors. Regular Regional Transit District (RTD) buses, the Airporter and the Denver Airport Shuttle ply between the airport and downtown Denver from dawn until well after dark. There are also more expensive door-to-door shuttle services. If you're driving from downtown, allow at least 40 minutes just to reach the airport.

Greyhound and affiliate TNM&O run frequent buses on routes along the Front Range and on transcontinental routes. All buses stop at the Denver Bus Terminal just north of the capitol. It's not the city's most charming spot, so if you're facing a long wait it's worth hanging out at a restaurant or bar in the area.

Amtrak's California Zephyr runs daily between Chicago and San Francisco (Emeryville) via Denver. Trains arrive and depart from Union Station, at the corner of 17th and Wyncoop Sts. The Ski Train to Winter Park operates on weekends throughout the snow season, also from Union Station. The scenic trip takes two hours and crosses the Continental Divide via the Moffat Tunnel.

At the intersection of I-70 and I-25, Denver is pretty hard for drivers to miss: even the worst navigators should have no trouble finding it. When you're ready to leave, driveaway companies in town may be able to provide you with a free set of wheels in exchange for vehicle delivery (just like Jack Kerouac in On the Road ). But you should be prepared to post a substantial deposit and forfeit it if you damage the car (just like Jack Kerouac in On the Road ).

Denver's 8km (5mi) RTD light rail line passes through downtown, with NB (northbound) trains running on California St, while SB (southbound) trains follow Stout St. Trains run every five minutes during peak periods. Bikes may board during off-peak hours with permit only.

Drivers of cars and riders of motorbikes will need the vehicle's registration papers, liability insurance and an international drivers permit in addition to their domestic license. In general, Colorado is less tolerant of speeding than most Western states, and if you consistently push the speed limits you stand a good chance of a run-in with the highway patrol. Be warned: fines are stiff. Seat belts are required for the driver and front seat passenger and for all passengers on highways and interstates. On motorcycles, helmets are required for anyone under 18. Driving is on the right.

Street parking can be a pain, but there are slews of pay garages in downtown and LoDo. Nearly all the major car-rental firms have counters at DIA, though a few have offices in downtown Denver; check the Yellow Pages .

Denver has a truly wonderful network of bicycle routes on city streets, plus trails along the Platte River Greenway, Cherry Creek and Bear Creek. See the Denver Metro Bike Routes map in the Denver phone book for route suggestions.

Visitors to the Museum of Nature & Science, Larimer Square, the zoo and many other attractions can board the RTD's special Cultural Connection Trolley with the purchase of an all-day ticket. One-hour self-guided tours aboard the trolley are an excellent way to orient yourself. Climb aboard in front of the Denver Center for the Performing Arts at the west end of downtown.