Chicago: Itineraries

The galleries of the West Loop are the beachhead for contemporary art in Chicago. The lower rents mean that young galleries can afford to have larger showrooms and take bigger chances. The West Loop is awkward to reach via public transportation, so unless you're a keen walker it's best to catch a cab.

We'll start our tour on May St between Fulton and Grand, at Gallery 312. You'll have to be buzzed in here. After wending your way through the labyrinth of hallways, you'll slip into one of the best places for art in the West Loop. Gallery 312's interconnected rooms showcase intriguing, non-stuffy contemporary art from local artists.

Next, head back down May St and make a left on Fulton St. This is one of the main streets for meatpacking and meat-sorting factories in the city. Before 15:00 , you'll likely see hordes of men in white butcher coats. Look in the windows of Morlen Sinoway Atelier and Function + Art (1052 & 1046 W Fulton, respectively) as you pass. If nothing catches your eye, continue up Fulton. At the intersection of Fulton and Morgan, you can see the multistorey Fulton Market Cold Storage (motto: 'WE BOX LOOSE MEAT').

On the south side of the street is the next stop, moniquemeloche. Monique's multilevel gallery showcases Chicago and international artists in a variety of media, and Monique is a great resource for local art and artists.

Outside again, look to your left. The restaurant Follia next door serves artful Italian food. Head east again on Fulton, passing the European furnishings store Casati and making a right on Sangamon St. You'll pass under the El tracks at Lake St, and continue south, making a left on Randolph St and right on Peoria St. Peoria is the West Loop's art hive. Start on the east side of the street at 119 Peoria, the home of Bodybuilder and Sportsman. You'll have to ring the doorbell for admittance. Hike up one floor, and follow the signs to the gallery. The name (and the sign) are stolen from a former sporting goods shop. The gallery shows seriously irreverent paintings, drawings and video works.

You'll find an even more renegade approach to art upstairs in Gallery 1R, the newest comer on the West Loop scene. Their works tend to be by students and other artistic troublemakers.

Head back onto Peoria, and walk across the street. No fewer than six galleries live in the 118 N Peoria St complex. On the ground floor, you'll find one of the best - the expansive, concrete-floored Rhona Hoffman gallery. Upstairs, though, are a whole host of other worthwhile options.

Almost done. Walk south down Peoria and cross Washington St. You'll be turning right here to head to one of the grand galleries in the West Loop, Donald Young Gallery, which handles some of the biggest names in contemporary art, including Bruce Nauman, Sol LeWitt, and Richard Serra. Double back up Washington to the final art stop: 835 W Washington, the home of Vendanta gallery. Vendanta shows works ranging from beautiful, haunting paintings, to cartoony political drawings. Other galleries share the building.