Chicago: Getting there & around

Orientation

The city of Chicago, in northeastern Illinois, stretches for 40km (25mi) along the southern tip of Lake Michigan's shore. Illinois is located in the northern central part of the United States, bordered by Wisconsin and Lake Michigan to the north, Iowa and Missouri to the west, Indiana to the east and Kentucky to the south.

The Loop is the historic centre of the city, drawing its name from the elevated train tracks that circle it. Its buildings constitute a virtual textbook of American architecture. The intersection of Madison and State Streets is the hub of a numbering system that lets you navigate without knowing any street names. From this point, all street numbers are predicated on north, south, east or west, depending on which way they radiate. Many of Chicago's neighbourhoods are named for their location in relation to the Loop (South Loop, Near North, West Side, etc).

Chicago's O'Hare International Airport is 27km (17mi) northwest of downtown. Midway Airport is 19km (12mi) southwest of downtown. Amtrak's national headquarters are within Union Station, located southwest of the Loop. The Greyhound station is also southwest of the Loop, not far from Amtrak.

Getting There

• bus

  Along with local buses run by the CTA, Greyhound sends dozens of buses in every direction every day. Trips are slower than they would be by car, with the bus making many small town stops along the way. The station's ticketing windows are open 24 hours. The Clinton El stop on the Blue Line is the nearest stop to the office.

• train

  Chicago's Union Station (210 S Canal St between Adams St and Jackson Blvd) is the hub for Amtrak (tel: 800 872 7245; www.amtrak.com), with more connections than any other city. Trains leave regularly for Midwestern cities like Milwaukee (2hrs) and Indianapolis (5hrs), as well as long-haul destinations like Boston (23hrs). Amtrak is usually faster than Greyhound, and much more comfortable.

• air

  Chicago is serviced by two airports: O'Hare and Midway. O'Hare's four terminals bustle day and night and are serviced by almost every airline known to man. Airport information and customer service counters are in Terminals 1, 3 and 5. Each terminal has one taxi stand outside the baggage claim area. The CTA offers 24-hour train service on the Blue Line to and from the Loop. Unfortunately, the O'Hare station is buried under the world's largest parking garage and finding it can be akin to navigating a maze - directional signs are variously marked as 'CTA', 'Rapid Transit' and 'Trains to City'. For recommendations on which route to take, ask your hotel when you reserve your room. Airport Express (tel: 312 454 7800; 800 654 7871; www.airportexpress.com) runs the shuttle services between the airport and hotels in the Loop and Near North. If you're heading directly to the Midway airport, you can take the Omega Shuttle.

  Midway is mostly known as a home to cut-rate carriers such as Southwest and ATA. A recent renovation has turned its formerly dowdy appearance into a modern, attractive airport with three concourses. You enter and exit through the magnificent New Terminal, home to almost all of the airport's services and amenities. Airport Information/Customer Service (tel: 773 838 0600), airport police, ATMs and Travellers Aid are all located here. Follow the signs to ground transportations to catch a taxi. You can take the CTA Orange Line from Midway to the Loop. The same shuttle-van operators that service O'Hare also work out of Midway. If you're renting a car at the airport, take S Cicero Ave north to I-55N. You can tune in to the airport radio station - 800 AM - for traffic and airport parking updates.

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Getting Around

• bus

  The Chicago Transit Authority (tel: 312 836 7000; www.transitchicago.com) consists of the El (an elevated train system) and buses. Pace buses handle outlying suburbs. For help on routes, call the number listed above, or visit the CTA's helpful trip planning website (http://tripsweb.rtachicago.com). The plastic tickets have a magnetized strip that allows you to add as much fare as you'd like. Fares are deducted automatically when you enter the El or board the bus. You can buy them at the O'Hare and Midway airport El stops, in local retail outlets and tourist attractions, or online via the CTA website and there are useful free system maps at all CTA stations. The El is an efficient, air-conditioned way to get around the city. Only the Blue Line from O'Hare to the Loop and the Red Line from Howard to 95/Dan Ryan runs trains 24 hours. Local CTA buses go almost everywhere, but they do so on erratic schedules. The bus stops are clearly marked, with signs showing which buses stop there but little else. Buses make frequent stops and don't go very fast.

• car

  Driving in Chicago is a challenge. The pace is speedy and reckless, and Chicago drivers have little patience for slow-driving tourists. During rush hour, roads become a crawling mess. The city's excellent public transport system means there is little reason to have a car, unless you're heading out of town.

  Should the need arise, both airports have a plethora of car rental options, supplementing the in-town branches. Most agencies offer unlimited mileage on their cars; if they don't, ask about it - the per mile costs can quickly add up.

  Parking in Chicago can be excruciating. Meter spots and on-street parking are plentiful in outlying areas, but scarce in the inner city. Be aware of parking regulations dictated by painted curbs. Some common curb colors and their meanings include: Red (no parking or stopping); Yellow (loading zone 07:00 - 18:00 ); Green (10-minute parking 09:00 - 18:00 ); White (picking up or dropping off passengers); Blue (disabled parking only; identification required). Parking in a garage can be expensive, but will save you time and traffic tickets. Try the downtown garages off Michigan Ave at Washington St and at Van Buren St.

• taxi

  Taxis are relatively easy to find in the city's north - elsewhere you'll need to call a cab or face what may be a long wait. All major companies accept credit cards. To report a taxi problem, call the taxi complaint hotline (tel: 312 744 9400).

• bicycle

  Bikes are for the intrepid, but there's plenty of hire places around. Bikes are allowed on all CTA trains, except during high-use commuter hours (Mon-Fri 07:00 - 09:00 and 16:00 - 18:00 .

• train

  A web of commuter trains running under the Metra (tel: 312 836 7000; www.metrarail.com) banner serves 245 stations in Chicago's surrounding suburbs. Some of the Metra lines run frequent schedules seven days a week; others operate only during weekday rush hours. Buy tickets from agents and machines at major stations. At small stations where nobody is on duty, you can buy the ticket without penalty from the conductor on the train, but there may be a small surcharge.

• motorcycle

  If you want to feel the Windy City's wind on your face then there's a place or two in Berwyn that will set you up with a motorcycle.

• Disabled Travellers

  Chicago can be a challenge for people with reduced mobility. The preponderance of older buildings means that doorways are narrow and stairs prevalent. Much of the El is inaccessible. If you do find a station with an elevator, make sure that there's also one at your destination. The CTA has, however, made progress on making its buses wheelchair-friendly, installing lifts in over 80% of the routes - see a list of wheelchair-accessible routes and El stations, check out Transit Chicago .

  For hotels, you are best off with the newer properties. But call the hotel itself - not the 800 number - and confirm that the room you want to reserve has the features you need. The phrase 'roll-in showers' is interpreted very loosely by some properties. The Mayor's Office for People with Disabilities (312-744-6673, TTY 312-744-7833; Room 1104, 121 N LaSalle St, 60602) is a good spot to start asking questions about the availability of services.

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