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Bookmark & shareOne Night Just Isn't Enough
Early in the morning, before the day gets steamy, go to Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace. These buildings form the pinnacle of Thai religious architecture and make a visual assault on short-term visitors. Afterwards, stroll down to Wat Pho, which has enough quirky corners to accommodate huge crowds of gawkers. Graze your way through lunch by sampling all the streetside snacks: pineapple, iced Thai coffee, satay, deep-fried bananas, more fruit. If you aren't already planted on Th Khao San, do a fly-through for a glimpse of the round-the-clock freak show or to pick up some cheap souvenirs. For dinner, head to one of the riverside restaurants for a side order of scenery.
Kick off the next day at the Amulet Market, which is so cramped with commerce that pavements become makeshift stores. When you're ready to see something else, charter a long-tail boat for a tour of Thonburi's river canals, bordered by elegant and dilapidated houses balancing effortlessly over watery yards. Most boat drivers will make a stop at Wat Arun, which would nicely complete a morning's temple consumption. Have the driver drop you off at Tha Phra Athit for a stroll through the charming neighbourhood of Banglamphu. For dinner, try one of the traditional Thai restaurants in the Silom-Surawong neighbourhood. You're then perfectly positioned for a night on the town in the notorious Patpong district. With everything from go-go bars to a market selling pirated goods, Patpong will make you feel naughty without damaging your soul.
With the cultural obligations out of the way, you can devote more time to the national sport - shopping. Siam Square has the largest concentration of shopping malls, ranging from mall-rat traps to label-whore temples. You can temporarily interrupt your shopping pilgrimage with a trip to Jim Thompson's House, a serene example of old-style Bangkok living. It will make you dream of becoming a Bangkok transplant. Be sure to ride the Skytrain, a sleek, elevated tram that gives a bird's-eye view into the city's fortressed compounds and high-rise balconies. If working those bargaining muscles has you worn out, treat yourself to a cheap and rejuvenating Thai massage. For dinner head to Th Sukhumvit, then check out one of the discos on Soi Patpong 2 and Silom Soi 4, or have a beer at one of the nearby bars. Before you call it quits, do as the Thais do and grab one final meal from a vendor stall as an insurance policy against a hangover.
A Top Day in Bangkok
Wake up in Bangkok and know that anything is possible. My perfect day would begin with a walk down the busy streets to select the best egg noodle soup with wontons and red pork, a delicious, ubiquitous dish and an excellent hangover cure. A trip down the river is next on the cards, a wonderful breezy way to see the city and its monuments without choking to death. A stop at a riverside restaurant is always scenic and delicious - I'd probably seek out some soft-shelled crab with glass noodles at In Love restaurant at Thewet pier. Jumping off the ferry at Saphan Taksin, I would skytrain it up to Siam for some shopping, making sure there's time at the end of the day for a calming swim, a Thai massage and a bag of mangosteens. Bangkok is all about alternating the pampering with the hard yards, the chic heights with the seething streets. An ideal evening, therefore, involves somewhere very fancy for drinks, like sunset at Vertigo (the rooftop bar at the Banyan Tree Hotel) and then local street food - say spicy salad and sticky rice, red curry squid and morning glory - on plastic chairs in the warping heat. The car park on the corner of Ratchadamri Road and Soi Sarasin, near Lumphini park, is great, as are many places in the Samsen sois in Banglamphu. Alternatively, I'd go for cold beer and salty beans at the little makeshift bars that line the Chatuchak weekend market (wonderful post-shopping ambience as the market is closing) followed by an inner-city restaurant. Dinner cruises run by the fancy hotels are super-touristy but a great treat for visitors. If there's a night out on the cards I would begin it with G&T's at Cheap Charlie's bar on Sukhumvit Soi 11 or Admakers (great live music) on Soi Lang Suan, and let the random and glorious energy of the city decide the rest. A midnight snack and a walk down the human zoo of Khao San Road is always entertaining, especially when the bars close and the messy hordes spill into the street.
Author: Annabel HartRelated Travel Stories
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