Metropolitan Bangkok covers 1569sq km (612sq mi) of southern Thailand, sitting smack in the middle of the most fertile rice-producing delta in the world. A network of natural and artificial canals crisscross the city, feeding to and from Thailand's hydrological lifeline - the broad Mae Nam Chao Phraya - which snakes through the city providing transport for passengers and cargo.
Bangkok is divided in two by the main north-south train line. Old Bangkok, where a large proportion of the city's temples and palaces and its Chinese and Indian districts are found, lies between the river and the railway. East of the railway, comprising the main business and residential districts, is 'new' Bangkok. Of course, outside of these general classifications, Bangkok spreads in all directions with a mixture of commercial, industrial and residential areas.
Bangkok is a major travel hub, so it has plenty of direct flights from capital cities in Asia, Australia, Canada, Continental Europe, the UK and USA. Bangkok is one of the cheapest cities in the world to fly out of, due to the Thai government's loose restrictions on air fares and close competition between airlines and travel agencies.
Bus and train services to southeast Asian countries are not so reliable, direct or fast.
Buses departing from the government bus station are reputed to be safer and more reliable than those leaving from Th Khao San and other tourist areas. Northern & Northeastern (Mo Chit) Bus Terminal services all northern and northeastern cities, including Chiang Mai, as well as central destinations. Eastern (Ekkamai) Bus Terminal is for points to the east and Southern (Sai Tai Mai) Bus Terminal will get you buses to Phuket, Hat Yai and all other points south. Note that these bus terminals all have left-luggage facilities.
There are two train stations in Bangkok. Hualamphong Railway Station handles services to the north, northeast and most of the services to the south. Thonburi Station handles some services to west, including Kanchanaburi. If you are heading south, double-check which station your train leaves from.
Bangkok is both Thailand's and southeast Asia's air travel hub. International and domestic flights arrive and depart from the newly opened Suvarnabhumi airport, 30km (20mi) east of Bangkok. The biggest airport in South East Asia, Suvarnabhumi replaces Don Muang airport to the north, which will now only handle charter flights.
Getting around Bangkok may be difficult for the uninitiated, but once you're familiar with the transport system the whole city is accessible. The main obstacle is traffic, which moves at a snail's pace during the day. This means advance planning is a must when you're attending scheduled events or making appointments. If you can, avoid the traffic and travel by river, canal or Skytrain.
Bangkok was once called the 'Venice of the East', but much of the original canal system has been filled in for road construction. Many smaller canals are hopelessly polluted and would probably have been filled in by now if it weren't for their important drainage function. Fortunately, in recent years several canal-boat services have been revived on the medium-sized canals.
Bus services are frequent but frantic, and a little confusing with all the different types of buses, so a bus map is an absolute necessity.
River taxis are cheap, convenient and work a regular route along the Mae Nam Chao Phraya. The Chao Phraya River Express operates between Tha Wat Ratchasingkhon in south central Bangkok northwards to Nonthaburi Province. There are express lines which stop at certain piers during set morning and evening hours and a local line which stops at all piers from to . Bangkok Metropolitan Authority operates the Khlong Saen Saeb route through central Bangkok. This route is useful for travellers pressed for time as it provides a traffic-less trip between Siam Square and Banglamphu.
Look for taxis with signs on top reading 'Taxi Meter' as these are always cheaper than non-metered taxis. It's a good idea to carry your hotel's business card with you as it will have directions written in Thai if you are having difficulty finding your way home. Make sure you agree on a fixed fare if you take a non-metered taxi or túk-túk .
The BTS Skytrain is Bangkok's elevated rail system, providing clean, user-friendly rail travel with great views in the bargain. Trains run frequently along two lines from to and are labelled with their final destination. Free maps of the system make life even easier.
The city's first-ever 18 station subway opened in 2004, linking Hualamphong Railway Staion with Bang Seu in the north via the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre. The line intersects Skytrain routes near the Asoke Skytrain station and also at the Mo Chit Skytrain station. Trains operate from to and vary in cost according to distance. Future extensions will connect Hualamphong to Chinatown and Thonburi.
Motorcycle taxis generally set up at the beginning of the residential streets and are used to get people those last few kilometres home (usually around 10B). For the right price they will get you where ever you need to be. Not recommended for the faint-hearted.
Bangkok presents one large, ongoing obstacle course for the mobility-impaired. With its high curbs, uneven pavements and non-stop traffic, movement around the city can be particularly difficult. Many streets must be crossed via pedestrian bridges flanked with steep stairways, while buses and boats don't stop long enough for even the mildly disabled. Rarely are there any ramps or other access points for wheelchairs. A few of the most expensive top-end hotels make consistent design efforts to provide disabled access to their properties. Other deluxe hotels with high employee-to-guest ratios are usually good about providing staff help where building design fails. For the rest, you're pretty much left to your own resources.
photofeature by Austin Bush, March 2008
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