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No day in Taipei would be complete without a walk in the lush mountains that ring this city. So I get up early and meet friends for a hike in Yangmingshan National Park. We're pretty sweaty and tired at the end, but a stop at a hot spring resort for a soak and a late breakfast refreshes us in no time. When we hit the city again I suggest a visit to the Palace Museum. Not everyone wants to go (yes, unfortunately, it can be a little under-whelming at times), but it's autumn and that means the most famous Chinese paintings are on display for six weeks. After looking at paintings for a while, I feel the need for a more visceral cultural experience and head for Longshan Temple. Today, as most days, it's thick with incense and devotees. But no one seems to mind at all when I shoot off some photographs. By mid-afternoon I'm feeling restless. The heat and smog of the city are starting to bother me. I need some open spaces and clean air. I jump on the MRT and head up to Hongshulin. I stroll through pristine mangrove swamps and wend my way on a bike path to Danshui. In Danshui, I catch the ferry to Fisherman's Wharf. It's pretty touristy here, but still fun and the sunsets are excellent. In any case, I'm here because I want to take a ferry all the way back down to the Dadaocheng Wharf near historic Dihua Market, instead of returning via the MRT. At Dihua Market I browse shops that have been selling medicine, cloth, and snacks for a hundred years before catching a taxi to Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall. There's a performance tonight of the sublime Cloud Gate dance company and I don't want to miss it. After the show I meet some friends at a teahouse up in the mountains of Maokong. On a large deck overlooking the city, we sip potent oolong tea and play cards till late into the night.
Author: Robert Kelly
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