You'll need to get hold of a lunar calendar if you're to have any hope of attending Taiwan's big events - very few of them occur on the same date every year. If fireworks and crowds crank your engine, visit Yenshui, Luerhmen or Beigang for the Lantern Festival, on the 15th day of the first lunar moon (also Pingxi for the release of the sky lanterns - one of the most sublime events of the year). Kuanyin's Birthday, on the 19th day of the second moon, is a good time to see temple festivities in full swing.
During the Ghost Festival (seventh lunar month), ghosts from hell walk the earth (Keelung has the best festival as various clans compete each year to put on a good spectacle; the old custom of pole climbing has been revived in Toucheng on the coast near Ilan). Matsu's birthday (23rd day of the third lunar month) is also a huge event: good places to see festivities include Lugang, Beigang and especially Dajia where the week-long Matsu pilgrimage around Taiwan begins and ends. It's Taiwanese folk religion at its best. National Day (10 October) is celebrated with gusto, fireworks and light shows in various places around Taiwan. Chinese New Year (first day of the first lunar month) is not a good time to visit since many businesses and sights close during this period.
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