A Top Day in Aleppo

A wander through the narrow stone walled alleyways of the atmospheric Christian quarter of Al-Jdeida is a wonderful way to begin a day in Aleppo. While most of the action centres on the main square of Saahat al-Hattab - in the morning, you'll see the baker's apprentices laying out piping hot rounds of Arabic bread on the pavement - the backstreets are even more intriguing. I like to take a circuitous route along lanes less travelled by tourists via bustling Souq al-Nahaseen to the living-breathing Muslim Al-Jibelah quarter, where the people are the friendliest in Aleppo. From there, I'll hike up to the Citadel for a coffee to take in the spectacular views over the sprawling city. Aleppo's labyrinthine Old City souq is next, and while the textiles in particular are always tempting, I'm happy enough to just take in the atmosphere, dodge the boys on donkeys, inhale the aromas of the spice souq, and stick my head into a khan or two. For lunch, I'll buy a hot grilled kebab at the butcher's souq (you know the meat's fresh!) and take some savoury biscuits home for later or I'll take a taxi over to Al-Azizieh,the new town, to feast on the finest Armenian cuisine at Cordoba restaurant. I'll walk it off with a stroll through the neighbourhood. While it's liveliest in the evening when the Christian kids shop the chic boutiques and flirt at the cafés, in the afternoon the streets are quiet and I can better take in the mishmash of architecture - everything from elegant art deco to more elaborately decorated mansions from the French-mandate era. Early evening, we'll head down to the old Baron Hotel for a drink on the terrace in summer or in the characterful bar when the weather's cooler. We'll stroll back to Al-Jdeida for a drink at Beit Sissi's terrace bar so we can watch the evening action on Saahat al-Hattab square before heading inside to savour tasty Aleppan cuisine as we listen to Oriental oud music.

Author: Lara Dunston

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