Stockholm is built on islands, except for the modern centre (Norrmalm), which is focused around the ugly Sergels Torg. This business and shopping hub is linked by a network of subways to Centralstationen (central train station); the popular gardens of Kungsträdgården lie just to the east. The subways link with the metro (tunnelbana or T) stations. The triangular island Stadsholmen and its neighbours accommodate Gamla Stan, separated from Norrmalm by the narrow channels of Norrström near the royal palace, but connected by several bridges. To the west of this is Lake Mälaren.
On the south side of Stadsholmen, the main bridge Centralbron and the Slussen interchange connect with the southern part of the city, Södermalm, and its spine Götgatan. From its top end the giant golf ball of the stadium Globen is the southern landmark, although you'll cross water again at Skanstull before reaching it. To the east of Gamla Stan is the small island of Skeppsholmen, and farther down Strandvägen and past the berths you cross to Djurgården, topped by Skansen.
Stockholm's Arlanda airport is 45km (28mi) north of the city centre. Skyways and SAS have comprehensive networks of domestic flights. International air services to Copenhagen, Oslo, Bergen, Helsinki, Reykjavik and St Petersburg are run by SAS. Finnair flies to Turku, Vaasa and Tampere, and there are around 15 flights per day to Helsinki. British Airways, Air France, KLM and Lufthansa also have regular European services.
Long-distance buses use Cityterminalen, next to Centralstationen. Here you'll find the Busstop ticket office, which represents the big lines such as Swebus Express, Eurolines, Svenska Buss and the cheaper Säfflebussen, along with many of the direct buses to the north.
Stockholm is the hub for national services run by Sveriges Järnväg (SJ). Direct trains to/from Copenhagen, Osla, Storlien (for Trondheim) and Narvik arrive and depart from Centralstationen (Stockholm C), as do the SL pendeltåg commuter sevices that run to/from Nynäshamn, Södertälje and Märsta.
Silja Line ferries depart for Helsinki and Turku from Värtahamnen. Viking Line ferries sail to Turku and Helsinki from the terminal at Tegelvikshamn. Rail passes give a 50% discount on these services.
Sweden has an extensive railway network, and trains are certainly the fastest way to get around. There are four long-distance train operators in Sweden, but the national network of Sveriges Järnväg covers most of the main lines. Exceptions are the overnight trains from Stockholm to Boden and Narvik, and the summer-only line from Boden to Haparanda, run by Tågkompaniet. Several counties run regional länstrafik train networks.
Driving in central Stockholm is not recommended; traffic is chaotic and fuel and parking are expensive. Illegally parked cars will get a fine; those deemed dangerous will be towed more than 17km (10.5mi) out of town at the owner's expense.
Taxis can be hailed from the kerb and are easy to find on busy streets or in front of bars at closing time. Cabs that are on duty have a lit 'taxi' sign on their roof. Most drivers speak at least some English, but if your Swedish is shaky it helps to have an address written down.
Sweden is a flat country, and it's ideal for cycling (from May to September at least). Cycling is an excellent way to look for points of interest in and around Stockholm, such as prehistoric sites, rune stones, parish churches and quiet spots for free camping.
Stockholm is reasonably well set up for people with disabilities - there are many special transport services with adapted facilities, ranging from trains to taxis, but always contact the operator in advance. Some SL buses are wheelchair accessible, and Taxi 020 (tel: 789 24 96, 632 90 70) offers taxi tours for disabled people.
Public toilets, some hotel rooms and a few museums have facilities for the disabled, street crossings may have ramps for wheelchairs and audio signals for the visually impaired, and even grocery shops may be wheelchair accessible.
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